GIORGIO ARMANI — AW19 Armani Privé was all about the crystal, which embellished everything from see-through netted tops to voluminous tiered skirts, structured tweed jackets and elegant evening shoes. The designer explained in his show notes that he wanted to create “the impression of a clear water surface reflecting a ray of moonlight or sunlight”. There were references to the late 1980s too – both in the form of folky peasant frocks and the power dressing of the decade. All in all, it was a dazzling collection which is sure to be snapped up by the Hollywood ladies who were sat on the front row.
GIVENCHY — Clare Waight Keller stepped somewhat outside of her comfort zone last night as she presented her ‘Noblesse Radicale’ collection, putting a very modern spin on regal clothing. There were glorious feather-embellished gowns, a structured satin dress with a striking cape, sharp oversized blazers paired with voluminous, embellished dresses and the most exquisite footwear in the form of clear, pointed pumps and others that were completely covered in feathers. The collection felt like a bold move for the designer, who has now spent two years at the helm of the French fashion house and is clearly ready to take some risks, but it was still in-keeping with the laidback elegance that her Givenchy has become synonymous with.
JEAN PAUL GAULTIER — models stormed the runway in animal prints, neon dresses and designs that played with optical illusions at Jean Paul Gaultier’s Haute Couture collection on Wednesday, set to a banging 1990s euro dance soundtrack. Gaultier – who joined the fur-free trend late last year at a time when brands like Burberry or Gucci are also dropping pelts – evoked an array of wildlife with animal prints including a panther coat and geometric, zebra-striped dresses. Notable stand-outs included a quilted cape made of neon green satin, laid on the model’s head like a tent, oversized long collars used as sleeveless jackets and enormous, faux-fur chapka hats. Presented in Gaultier’s Paris headquarters, the collection included dresses with endless dots of colour, creating the optical illusion of movement.
VALENTINO — Pierpaolo Piccioli showcased his personal Utopia, inspired by Irving Penn’s Worlds in a Small Room, his 1974 celebration of cultural diversity. Gigi Hadid, Adut Akech, Kaia Gerber, Mariacarla Boscono, Lauren Hutton, Lineisy Montero and Saskia de Brauw came together for a fantastical take on beauty, rendering normally jaded fashion editors to tears.
VIKTOR & ROLF — it was always going to be hard for Viktor & Rolf to follow on from the brand’s meme-worthy spring/summer 2019 collection, so this season the designer duo decided to focus on ‘spiritual glamour’ and the idea of making the world a better place. The label teamed up with textiles designer Claudy Jongstra who raises rare Drenthe Heath sheep and produces botanical pigments to create interesting fabrics and dyes. The results were witch-like and dramatic with artistic moonscape prints and embroideries.
ALEXANDRE VAUTHIER — Alexandre Vauthier’s couture catwalk is always a good indicator of the kind of looks we will see being worn by supermodels on the red carpet over the next few months. This season, the designer paid tribute to Paris and to everything that had made him want to become a couture designer in the first place – to the craftsmanship and exquisite detail that goes into creating a made-to-order garment. There were plenty of revealing draped sequin dresses that were met with touches of feminine tailoring, exaggerated shoulders and flowing hems.