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Ghulam Murtaza

Two Days in Paradise

Published on: August 23, 2024 7:23 AM

August 23, 2024 by Ghulam Murtaza

The Islamabad Chamber of Commerce and Industry (ICCI) has carved a unique niche in Pakistan, particularly in promoting tourism. Under the dynamic leadership of its young and energetic President, Mr Ahsan Zafar Bakhtawari, the Chamber has significantly enhanced business activities in the Islamabad region over the past two years. Yet, despite his vigor, Mr Bakhtawari’s father, the seasoned Zafar Bakhtawari, seems to carry an ageless spirit that surpasses even his son’s youthful enthusiasm.

Soon after assuming my role as Secretary General, I was tasked with organizing the second edition of a tour to Skardu. For someone like me, who has explored the world yet never ventured into this particular slice of paradise within Pakistan, the prospect was exhilarating. Skardu, like every inch of this richly endowed yet poorly managed nation, offers a glimpse of heaven on Earth. Pakistan is a land of contrasts, from its eight towering peaks, second only to the Himalayas, to its vast range of temperatures from minus fifty to plus fifty degrees Celsius. It is a country blessed with precious metals and stones, deep-sea ports, fertile plains, and various fruits but plagued by poor governance.

Our delegation included ambassadors and diplomats from the European Union, Malaysia, Azerbaijan, Kazakhstan, Egypt, Myanmar, Yemen, Turkey, Libya, and Portugal. A short 45-minute flight transported us to a world where snow-capped peaks, like modest ladies draped in white shawls, stood as silent sentinels. As we marveled at the majestic scenery, the captain announced our imminent landing at the quaint yet orderly Skardu Airport, nestled among the mountains.

Skardu’s beauty is timeless, a place where modern travellers can connect with the Earth’s elemental forces in their purest form.

We then journeyed to Kachura, where the chilly waters of a roaring stream meet the warmth of nature’s embrace. Our sizable group of 125, comprising business leaders and diplomats, gathered here to witness the breathtaking beauty of Pakistan’s northern region. The Governor of Gilgit-Baltistan joined us for lunch, and a choir of schoolchildren sang national songs with heartfelt enthusiasm, their faces radiating love for their homeland and hope for a brighter future. This scene dispelled any false notions that the people of Baltistan do not wish to be part of Pakistan.

After lunch, we proceeded to the enchanting Shangrila Lake, where the low-hanging apples, peaches, and apricots evoked images of the paradises described in religious texts. The Shangrila huts, spread across a vast area, epitomized aesthetic beauty, tranquility, and the serene connection between nature and the human spirit. The echoes of rippling water filled the valley, framed by towering mountains. Along the way, we encountered the centuries-old Indus River, originating from India, where jubilant trout swam in the crystal-clear waters at the feet of the mountains. Skardu wrapped itself in a black shawl as darkness fell, awaiting the dawn.

The next day, we ascended 16,000 feet to visit Deosai, known as the “Land of Giants.” The adventure was about to begin as we took along police escorts, ambulances, and oxygen cylinders, prepared for any unforeseen challenges. One of the diplomats tested our nerves by experiencing motion sickness during the journey. When we finally reached the top, there were no giants, but the view was one to be cherished for a lifetime. Rain added to the day’s challenges, tainting our lunch and exacerbating the sickness of our companion. Mrs. Ahsan Zafar Bakhtawari administered first aid, and he was swiftly transported back to Skardu, followed by the rest of the group.

Despite these challenges, Mr Zafar Bakhtawari’s celebration of Independence Day was a testament to his unwavering patriotism, shared by the ambassadors, diplomats, and their families who rejoined us.As you ascend the winding road to Deosai, the path coils like a serpent through the mountains, each twist revealing the raw beauty of the terrain. To your right, the emerald waters of Sadpara Lake shimmer like a jewel (due to optical illusion), a vital reservoir nourishing the scattered population of Skardu below. Nestled near this tranquil lake is a cluster of charming houses – the village of Muhammad Ali Sadpara, named after the legendary high altitude mountaineer who conquered K2 without the aid of oxygen. This humble hamlet, where the air is thick with tales of bravery, also mourns the loss of his father, who, too, met his fate in the relentless embrace of the mountains.

As evening approached, we gathered for dinner, where notable figures like the Minister of Gilgit-Baltistan Planning, Raja Nasir, Mr. Ahsan Zafar Bakhtawari, Ambassadors of European Union, Malaysia, Myanmar, Yemen, Portugal, the President of the Islamabad Women’s Chamber, Sajid Ali Sadpara, Mr Zafar Bakhtawari and prominent ICCI member delivered inspiring speeches. Ms. Qurrat ul Ain, Vice-President of FPCCI, gave a powerful presentation on the immense tourism potential in Pakistan and its global impact. She emphasized that tourism is not merely about sightseeing; it is a potent tool for fostering global connections.

The next morning, we reluctantly returned to Islamabad, carrying with us memories of two days spent in paradise. Skardu, a nearly crime-free region, is home to warm and friendly people. The local administration provided us with full support, but there is no doubt that better infrastructure and facilities could further elevate tourism in Pakistan. Our northern regions are no less beautiful than Switzerland or Scotland. Skardu, nestled in the heart of Gilgit-Baltistan, is a testament to nature’s grandeur and the elegance of untouched wilderness. At an altitude of 2,438 meters, it offers a sublime blend of towering mountains, serene lakes, and valleys that resonate with ancient serenity. Often called the gateway to the world’s highest peaks, Skardu boasts the majestic Karakoram Range, home to K2, the second-highest mountain on Earth.

The allure of Skardu lies not only in its landscapes but in the intricate details that define them-the crystal-clear waters of Satpara and Shangrila Lakes, the dramatic cliffs of Deosai National Park, and the historic splendor of Skardu Fort. This region is a sanctuary for those seeking both adventure and tranquility, offering experiences ranging from exhilarating treks to peaceful reflections in nature’s embrace. In recent years, Skardu has become increasingly recognized not only for its natural wonders but also for its emerging role as a hub for eco-tourism and sustainable development. With a population exceeding 200,000, the region is evolving, striving to preserve its pristine environment while balancing modern aspirations with traditional lifestyles. Skardu’s beauty is timeless, a place where modern travellers can connect with the Earth’s elemental forces in their purest form.

The writer is a freelance author and Secretary General of ICCI.

Filed Under: Op-Ed

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