Let me take you to another haveli inside the Taxali Gate, and you will be mesmerised by its history. This is the Haveli of Raja Dhiyan Singh, where the foundations of the Government College Lahore were laid.The preliminary classes of Government College and the Oriental College started in this haveli in 1864. A book ‘Lahore ka Chelsea’ also states that many professors of Oriental and Government Colleges resided inside Bhatti Gate as it was close to the location of Haveli Dhiyan Singh. This was the reason why settlement of teachers and literary people started in Bhatti Gate. Under the British rule, Government College was opened on January 1st 1864 in this Haveli and Gottlieb Wilhelm Leitner (professor of Arabic and Islamic Law at King’s College in London) was nominated as principal of the college. The first class consisted of nine students, all of whom matriculated from the University of Calcutta. In April 1871, the college moved to its present site.
Now imagine the pride and magnitude of this Haveli which is lying abandoned today. The facts far from our beliefs which are linked to this Haveli and the stories are stupefying: it was a church, a college, a school and an examination centre. If you wish to visit this haveli, you take your way inside Taxali Gate of Walled City of Lahore, go to Chowk Nogaza Peer and from there to Said Mitha Hospital. A narrow entrance opposite the hospital will lead you to this masterpiece.
At present, some families have encroached the haveli’s portions and are residing there. During the British rule, the haveli was turned into a school in 1854, and after a decade in 1864, Government College and Oriental College Lahore were established there. Once these colleges shifted, the Haveli was turned into a boys school named ‘Dhiyan Singh School’ which, after partition, was renamed to City Muslim League High School. A dented board is still seen lying in the main chamber of the haveli
One can see a sign of Haveli Dhiyan Singh at the entrance of the street. At present, this huge complex has been extensively built over with residential houses, except for the pillared hall which was once the Diwan Khana, complete with a throne platform on the rear wall of Raja Dhiyan Singh. This is where Raja held court. Unfortunately, today this embellished piece of history is a crumbling ruin and calling for immediate preservation. If the Haveli is not restored we will lose this gem like many others inside Walled City of Lahore.
History tells us that this Haveli had 62 rooms originally which one can never believe if standing on the location. Originally the Haveli covered an area of 47 kanals but it reduced to 2 kanals after encroachments and division of land, maybe after 1947. At present, some families have encroached the haveli’s portions and are residing there. During the British rule, the haveli was turned into a school in 1854, and after a decade in 1864, the Government College and Oriental College Lahore were established there. Once these colleges shifted, the Haveli was turned into a boys school named ‘Dhiyan Singh School’ which, after partition, was renamed to City Muslim League High School. A dented board is still seen lying in the main chamber of the Haveli. Till 2004, the Haveli was used as a boys’ school, but due to the crumbling conditions of the building the school was shifted to a nearby locality. Now there is nothing in the haveli except for the rubbles and debris, cats and pigeons.
The only remaining but colliding piece of the haveli we see today is the main hall where Raja held his court and the balcony for public hearing is still present. The haveli also has a basement but access to it is difficult now as it is surrounded by debris and is completely ruined. The main door leading to the basement is also covered with cobwebs and the staircase is scary and sealed. The Haveli is a mixture of Mughal and Sikh Architecture and this reflects from the arches and structure. The lotus flower petals on the pillars of the main hall and the jharoka made for public hearing resemble the architecture of Lahore Fort and other buildings of that era. To my surprise, the remains of original fresco work on some pillars and portions on walls are still seen.
Kanhayya Lal, a famous historian and book writer in 1884, described Dhiyan Singh’s haveli in his book that the haveli was more extensive than Khushal Singh’s Haveli (Chunna Mandi College inside Walled City Lahore). He wrote that it took many years to build it and all the private houses nearby were demolished to acquire the land. According to him, there was a stable for horses and elephants of the Raja near the main entrance. Numerous buildings towards the North were a part of the huge Haveli. After a long distance from the inner gate, there was another vestibule having two paths diverging from it. The one on North led to the female quarters and the southern one led to the court hall. He wrote that in the female quarters of haveli, there were big buildings and basements and the ceilings were plated with gold. Later the haveli was in the possession of Ranbir Singh, son of Gulab Singh, the sovereign of Jammu and Kashmir and his Lahore counsel resided in the Haveli. Now you can feel the grandeur of this Haveli lying in ruins now!
Let me tell you that Raja Dhiyan Singh was a Sikh courtier born in 1796 and served Maharaja Ranjit Singh. Dhiyan Singh was the middle of three brothers. His father was a minor chieftain. With his two brothers, Gulab Singh and Suchet Singh, he ended up in the employment of Maharaja Ranjit Singh after he conquered Jammu. During the later years, the Maharaja gave the title of Raja of Jammu to Gulab Singh and Dhiyan Singh secured the title of the Raja of Rajas and the Overlord of Bhimber and also became the prime minister of the kingdom. He is said to be the most powerful man in Punjab. He and his son Hira Singh were very close to the Maharaja. There are credible accounts that he tried to immolate himself on Maharaja’s death. Historic references state that he was the one who ignited Prince Nau Nehal Singh against his father Kharak Singh and removed Kharak Singh from the Lahore Fort. He convinced Prince Nau Nehal Singh and his mother Rani Chand Kaur that the interest of the state would be best served if Maharaja Kharak Singh retired and Nau Nehal Singh ruled as regent. According to Sikh history, Raja Dhiyan Sigh gained high positions because of his intelligence and astuteness. Raja Dhiyan Singh died in 1843.
The writer is a media professional and can be reached at [email protected]
Published in Daily Times, April 3rd 2018.