
KARACHI: At a culinary competition in Karachi in June, Chef Tabinda Qayyum stole the spotlight with her innovative dish, “purdah moti biryani,” a biryani hidden beneath a baked dome of dough.
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The dish features melt-in-the-mouth beef meatballs, or “motis,” layered with perfectly cooked biryani rice inside a sealed crust. Judges praised the biryani for its “dum” — the slow cooking that locks in flavor — awarding Tabinda the top prize at the event.
Tabinda prepares the meatballs first, seasoning minced beef with coriander, onion, and spices. She then fries onions for the biryani masala, adding curry spices, tomato, ginger, and garlic paste, and cooks the meatballs in this masala until most water evaporates. The rice is boiled to 40 percent, slightly undercooked to allow for baking within the dough.

The metal bowl used for the dish is lined with a kneaded flour dough, then layered with rice, meatballs, and masala. Garnishes include thin lime slices, coriander, and green chilies. The dough is folded over, sealed, coated with egg wash, sprinkled with black and white sesame seeds, and baked twice to achieve a golden crust while steaming the stuffing to perfection.
“I was inspired by pies and casseroles,” Tabinda explains. “There are other purdah rice dishes, but most use plain pulao or meat pieces. My biryani has pearls in the form of meatballs — a real treasure.”
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Tabinda, who holds a year-long diploma from the Pakistan Institute of Tourism and Hotel Management and additional culinary certifications, also works with branded bread and spice companies. She enjoys cooking continental dishes but says the purdah moti biryani remains her signature creation, delighting both judges and food enthusiasts alike.