The stories of Walled City of Lahore are never ending and one falls in love with it while reading about its historic galore and magnificence. I think that every nook and corner, balcony, brick, street, jharoka, wall, gate and bazaar has its own past and stories. While walking through the narrow winding twining streets of this city, you can hear the buildings and streets whispering about the glory they have now lost. Today, let me take you to another gate of the Walled City of Lahore which is not much explored as people think there is less historic value associated with it, but I think this gate is also one of the important gates of the city and hides the ages old stories in its streets and buildings.
This is the Mochi Gate located in south of the Walled City of Lahore. This is also one of the thirteen gates of the Walled City of Lahore which were built during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Akbar and were connected with a thirty feet high fortified wall for guarding the city. The gates were demolished during the British rule but were again constructed in early 1900s but during the riots of 1947 some gates were burnt down and some were demolished, so Mochi is one of them. The structure of the gate does not exist now but the streets, mohallah and buildings of high architectural value can still be seen in its streets.
According to some historians, the name of Mochi Gate is marred form of ‘Moti’. It has been stated by authentic historians of the past that Pandit Moti Ram, a guard during the reign of emperor Akbar, used to watch over the gate and remained attached to his post till his death. Due to his dedication, the gate was named after him
There are several traditions associated with the name of this very gate. According to some historians, the name of the gate is marred form of “Moti”. It is written by authentic historians of the past that Pandit Moti Ram, a guard during the reign of Akbar used to watch over the gate and remained attached to his post till his death. Due to the dedication of the guard the gate was named after him. On the other hand it is said by some historians that “Mochi” is the marred form of Urdu word “Morchi” which means “Trench Soldier”. It is further supported by the fact that the different streets and Mohallahs inside this gate still bear their old names like Mohalla Teer-garan (arrow craftsmen), Mohalla Kaman-garan (bow craftsmen). So I guess the second tradition makes more sense and marks of it are still evident inside the gate. Due to several encroachment and new constructions in the city, one cannot make out the exact location of the gate but this gate is between the Akbari and the Shah Alam Gates of the walled city. If you are inside this gate, you will come across markets like Bazaar Kamaan Garan, Dana Market, Baraa Market, Alamgir Market, and Itefaq Market which by design connects with the Shah Alam market which is the largest commercial hub of Lahore.
Let us come to something interesting inside this gate now. Over the passage of time, Mochi Gate became popular because of its association with the religious processions during the month of Muharram as two main Havelis namely Nisar and Mubarik Havelis and Mohallah Shian are located there. The processions of Muharram gather in these Havelis and are the largest here in Lahore. Ziarat of Muharram is also taken out from these havelis and most of the people from greater Lahore gather in these havelis during majalis of Muharram. If by any chance you are inside this gate during Muharram you will be carried away by the recitations of Noha, majalis and other rituals. Such a feel of Muharram is nowhere to be seen in Lahore.
An interesting place inside this gate is the mosque of Saleh Kamboh. A few steps away from Mohallah Shian there is a “Khoya Bazaar” and the mosque of Mullah Muhammad Saleh Kamboh who is said to be the teacher of Mughal Emperor Aurangzeb. Historians say that this mosque was once as spectacular as Wazir Khan Mosque but due to negligence and lack of maintenance, it has lost its grandeur. However, few remains of the fresco are still visible on its outer walls and inner chambers, but most of the parts have been painted with whitewash. Another mosque worth mentioning inside this gate is the mosque of Mullah Majeed near Nisar Haveli inside Mohallah Chehal Bibian. Mullah Majeed was a foreign trader who often visited Lahore for business and being religious, he invested his earnings in a noble cause and constructed this mosque. This mosque too has lost most of the original fabric but the great history remains with it. Both these are functional mosques and opened for public.
The twisting streets of Mochi Gate are breathtaking and you will see the high architectural merit buildings in them. While walking there, you will also come across unique street names like Gali Bandooq Sazan, Noor Gali, Koocha Kaman Garan, Gali Rani Gul begum, Koocha Chabak Sawaran which finally joins with Rang Mehal Chowk. The Haveli of Mian Khan is also located inside the Mochi Gate and can also be accessed from Shah Almi Gate. This massive Haveli was built in Emperor Shah Jahan’s reign by his Prime Minister Nawab Saadullah Khan. It was completed during the reign of Emperor Aurangzeb by the Nawab`s son, Mian Khan, who was the then Governor of Lahore. When the British took over Lahore in 1849, they converted Rang Mahal into a Mission School. Till date, the building is in use of the school whereas some portions of the haveli are still residential and people are living inside it. There is an interesting Muhallah Sadakaraan inside this gate, where one of the great classical singers of the subcontinent Ustad Chotay Ghulam Ali Khan lived.
There is a huge dried fruit market in this gate and you will get them on very low prices but there is no compromise on the quality. This is the best quality dried fruits you will find in Lahore as it is also a whole sale market. Other than this you will see traditional sweet shops, eatables and items in this gate. Being inside this gate, you cannot ignore the aroma of “Das Kulcha with Lonchara” which is the mouthwatering breakfast and also a delicacy of the gate since decades. There was a time when a lot of Das Kulcha shops were located there but now we only one as people have either moved out of the city or changed their business. Still there are people who have the taste of this delicacy and would want to have it in breakfast, and I guess those people have kept this traditional food alive. This gate is also known for meat kebabs and other dishes. We also find the famous Fazal Sweets shop here, the owner of which had migrated from Kashmir to Lahore in 1933.
Once all the important political processions and gatherings were held inside the Mochi Gate Park which still exists there. There were a few wrestling arenas as well but those have vanished away with the passage of time. Mochi gate has a significant importance in terms of heritage and history which cannot be ignored and I suggest that you all visit this place.
Published in Daily Times, June 29th 2018.