Without a doubt, the Walled City of Lahore is enriched with monuments, havelis (historic homes), markets, culture and architecture.
Recently, we had a chance to visit the Walled City of Lahore in search of Imambargahs. We entered the small streets of the Walled City, leading to Mohallah Shia. The area is known for its Imambargahs, Shia community and culture. One can find Nisar Haveli, Sajda Mubarak Haveli, Alif Shah, Babul Hawaij and Maatam Siraai and many more. Within these areas, a large number of Shia community members are living comfortably.
The word Haveli is derived from the Arabic word “Havali” and Persian “Hawli”, meaning “a huge enclosed place”. These havelis are known for the religious processions during the month of Muharram. If ever there were a Haveli that could be labelled among the oldest and the finest, without doubt one of those would be Haveli Mubarak. Just to highlight for our readers that exiled Afghan king Shah Shuja and his wife Begum Wafa lived in this haveli for years and during their stay Mahraja Ranjheet Singh trained them. During their stay at Haveli Mubarak, Begum Wafa handed over the Koh-e-Noor diamond to Mahraja Ranjheet Singh on June 1, 1813. In Persian, Koh-e-Noor diamond means “Mountain of Light”.
These above mentioned havelis are one of the most respected havelis in the Walled City as they hold Muharram and Safar processions. The processions from 7-10 are lead out of these Havelis. Within these havelis, we can see hundreds of mourners in Muharram and Safar.
In the Walled City, specific streets are associated with the Shia community. Dressed in black, men, women and children can be seen going to these Imambargahs and places for their majalis. Moreover, at every corner of these streets, one can easily find flavoured milk and langar (free food) or other sweet drinks 24/7
In the Walled City, specific streets are associated with the Shia community. Dressed in black, men, women and children can be seen going to these Imambargahs and places for majalis. Moreover, at every corner of these streets, one can easily find flavoured milk and langar (free food) or other sweet drinks 24/7. People decorate these stalls (sabeel) with flowers.
According to history, Syed Ghulam Ali Shah, popularly known as Gamay Shah, started this procession and later he was also buried in the same place where he lived his life. But very importantly and interestingly as per our talk with historian Liaqat Ali, Muhammad Hussain Azad, a very prominent Urdu writer of the early 20th century is also buried in Gamay Shah. He said this information is covered in many history books and very few people are aware of this.
The Walled City of Lahore has changed its demography due to construction over the passage of time but the route of this procession remains the same and accurate. The route starts at Nisar Haveli on Muharram 9, and moves through Mubarak Haveli, Mohalla Chehl Bibian, Imambargah Syed Wajid Ali Shah, Chowk Nawab Sahib, Koocha Qazi Khana, Imambargah Maulvi Feroz Ali, Koocha Miskeenan, Mohalla Peer Gillanian, Imambargah Syed Rajab Ali Shah, Chauhatta Mufti Baqir, Chowk Kotwali, Kashmiri Bazaar, Sonehri Masjid, Dabbi Bazaar, Gumti Bazaar (Rang Mahal Chowk), Said Mittha Bazaar, Tehsil Bazaar, Bazaar Hakimaan, Ucchi Masjid and Bhaati Chowk, concluding at Karbala Gamay Shah on the eve of Muharram 10.
The people of Walled City have always showed religious tolerance, especially during Muharram. I pray this sense of attitude remains in the coming years.
Salman Ali is a social and political activist based in Lahore. He can be reached at [email protected]. Abdullah Khan is a professional photographer. His areas of interest are culture. All the photographs in the article have been provided by him
Published in Daily Times, October 3rd 2017.