Most visitors head to the small Norwegian city of Tromso, sitting a chilly 350 kilometres above the Arctic Circle, for the Northern Lights that streak across the night sky. But shift your gaze downwards and there’s plenty going on at eye level here, too. From its centuries-old townhouses, to its fantastic waterside restaurants there is a lot on offer in this lively snow-cloaked hub. RADISSON BLU – This waterfront hotel – certainly one of the best in Tromso – has magnificent views of the port. Rooms are warm and spacious, with comfy beds, robes and slippers and there is a glass-encased corridor for aurora spotting. The breakfast buffet is nothing short of a bonanza, with pancakes, pastries, eggs, meats, gluten free stations and even sweets. Comfort Hotel Xpress – This centrally-located stopover is smart and fuss-free (no room service or minibars). Rooms are on the small side and – to keep things affordable – aren’t cleaned every day, but they are nicely furnished and there’s a 24-hour lobby shop for snacks. Doubles from £94; nordicchoicehotels.no. Smart Hotel – With Nordic interiors and natty slogans on the walls, this slick little hotel might have teeny tiny rooms, but it’s still worth a stay. Hot soup is served every day in the lobby, and there’s a bar, gym and ‘smart shop’ on site, as well as free rental bikes for guests. Doubles from £85; smarthotel.no. You’ll find 152 neat yet cosy rooms at Thon, as well as cheerful splashes of paint and eye-catching foliage-print wallpaper in the communal areas. There’s complimentary coffee and newspapers in the lobby and 24-hour front desk service. Breakfast is included and comes in the form of a sizeable buffet, for stocking up before a day of exploring the city. Doubles from £88; thonhotels.com. Prices may vary especially in winter. You can see this eye-catching triangular structure from many parts of Tromso (even from the air as you land). In winter it is spectacularly lit, glowing like a candle in the snow. Entry is £4, or stroll round the back to see the afternoon light hit the beautiful stained glass windows for free. Opening hours vary so check online first. ishavskatedralen.no. Hop on the city’s cable car (£12 return), which stretches 420m up the side of the craggy Storsteinen mountain, for views of the whole city, and the surrounding inky fjords. At night it’s a fantastic spot to ‘hunt’ the Northern lights. Wrap up, the cold wind can bite. fjellheisen.no/en. Storgata, the main pedestrian street in Tromso, is flanked by pretty shops (beware inflated prices at ‘tourist shops’). Ting has beautiful homewares and scented candles, while Chasing Lights sells intriguing glacier salt. Visit the library for beautiful views across the town and mountains beyond. In previous centuries, Tromso was a centre for seal hunting, trapping and ice fishing, and was the launch spot for several notable Arctic expeditions. You’ll find all of this at the waterfront Polar Museum (£6). uit.no/tmu. Tromso has more pubs per capita than any other Norwegian town, and Olhallen, as the name would suggest, is its oldest. Established in 1928 it once teemed with fisherman, farmers and townspeople. Enjoy beers, from blueberry stout to ‘dead cat’ IPA. mack.no/en/olhallen. Food can be costly in Tromso, but Asian-focused East does a great job without paying through the nose. Think low lights and a menu of sushi rolls, bbq pork buns and firecracker pad thai (mains from £10.50). restauranteast.no. A favourite of tourists and young locals, this burger joint is lofty and lantern-lit, with a wide selection of burgers, barbequed meats and veggie options (the frozen pasjonsfruit margaritas are splendid). graffigrill.no. This cute vintage shop sells retro furniture, clothes and books as well as decently priced breakfast and lunch options (try quesadillas and salads). It’s also a great people-watching spot – locals may sledge past. Frederik Langes gate 9; +4791670620. Townsfolk flock to Riso for the intricate latte art and comfy seating. Meals, mainly soups and sandwiches, are affordable but it can get busy around lunch, so visit before 12pm or later in the afternoon. Tromsø is a municipality in Troms og Finnmark county, Norway. The administrative centre of the municipality is the city of Tromsø. Tromsø lies in Northern Norway. The 2,521-square-kilometre (973 sq mi) municipality is the 18th largest by area out of the 422 municipalities in Norway. Tromsø is the 9th most populous municipality in Norway with a population of 71,590 (2014). The municipality’s population density is 30.6 inhabitants per square kilometre (79/sq mi) and its population has increased by 15.9% over the last decade. It is the largest urban area in Northern Norway and the third largest north of the Arctic Circle anywhere in the world (following Murmansk and Norilsk). Most of Tromsø, including the city centre, is located on the island of Tromsøya, 350 kilometres (217 mi) north of the Arctic Circle. In 2017, the city of Tromsø had a population of about 65,000 people spread out over Tromsøya and parts of Kvaløya and the mainland. Tromsøya is connected to the mainland by the Tromsø Bridge and the Tromsøysund Tunnel, and to the island of Kvaløya by the Sandnessund Bridge. The municipality is warmer than most other places located on the same latitude, due to the warming effect of the Gulf Stream. Tromsø is even milder than places much farther south of it elsewhere in the world, such as on the Hudson Bay and in Far East Russia, with the warm-water current allowing for both relatively mild winters and tree growth in spite of its very high latitude. The city centre of Tromsø contains the highest number of old wooden houses in Northern Norway, the oldest house dating from 1789. The city is a cultural centre for its region, with several festivals taking place in the summer. Torbjørn Brundtland and Svein Berge of the electronica duo Röyksopp and Lene Marlin grew up and started their careers in Tromsø. Noted electronic musician Geir Jenssen also hails from Tromsø.