In the heart of Peshawar, just opposite the storied alleys of historic Qissa Khwani Bazaar, the rhythmic hum of sewing machines and the soft rustle of woolen cloth create a symphony of tradition inside a modest two-room shop of Chitrali Chugha (overcoat), attracting customers.
Here, 59-year-old Haji Fayaz Ali bends over a half-stitched Chitrali Chugha, working with quiet focus, seemingly oblivious to the cold Chapli Kababs cooling on a nearby table or the chatter outside.
With the air turning crisp after the recent rains, Fayaz’s hands move faster. “Winter is here, and so are the orders,” he says with a smile, gesturing to bundles of fabric waiting their turn.
The Chitrali Chugha-a traditional woolen overcoat is once again in great demand in winter in KP.
Its rich wool, distinctive embroidery, and deep cultural roots make it a prized possession, especially among older citizens who still prefer the warmth of authenticity over synthetic alternatives.
For Fayaz, Chugha-making tailor locally called Ustad (master) is not just a livelihood; it is a legacy. “I learned this craft from my father, Muhammad Nawaz,” he recalls. “I would come home from school, sit beside him, and watch how his hands worked magic with needle and thread.”
Now, that same tradition is being passed to his son, Faraz Khan, who assists him in the shop. “It’s not easy,” Faraz admitted, “but it feels right to continue what my grandfather started irrespective of profits.”
Their shop is one of over 120 in Chitrali Bazaar, a vibrant market founded by artisans from Chitral who settled in Peshawar decades ago. Here, alongside embroidered waistcoats, fur-trimmed woolen caps, and shawls, the Chugha remains the most iconic winter garment in KP.
Though western-style coats dominate modern wardrobes, the Chitrali Chugha holds its ground, especially among those who value tradition. “The Chugha is warmer than any imported coat,” says Yasir Khan, a tailor who’s been crafting Chughas for over 20 years.
“It’s made from pure wool mostly from Chitral or Swat. Unlike mass-produced clothes, this carries a part of our culture in every stitch.”
Yasir explains that machine-made Chughas in Peshawar cost between Rs7,000 and Rs10,000, while the hand-stitched versions made in Chitral can fetch up to Rs25,000 due to the painstaking effort involved.
According to journalist and cultural historian Irshadullah Chitrali, the original Chugha is more than just a coat but it’s a work of art.
“Traditionally, it was made from lamb’s wool,” he says. “To dye it camel brown, artisans would boil walnut husk and soak the woolen cloth, giving it that rich, earthy tone.”
Dedpute publicity of other wollen products through social and digital media, he said Chitral Chugha kept its ground in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa.
“I like Chitrali Chugha made of pure wollen especially of Kohistani or Chitrali sheeps” said Riaz Khan, a retired PST teacher while selecting chugha at Chitrali bazzar.
He said that durability and its unique style add grace to personality besides protect people from harsh cold.
He describes the process as long and labor-intensive. “From shearing lambs to spinning wool, weaving the fabric, and finally tailoring as each Chugha took days to make. That’s why the original ones are expensive and rare.”
Today, due to limited access to lamb wool, many tailors use alternative materials, which has lowered costs but also diluted the authenticity. Still, the craftsmanship persists.
In an era where foreign-made jackets flood markets at lower prices, the Chitrali Chugha continues to hold its niche not just among locals, but also among curious tourists who stumble upon the shops in Peshawar’s old city.
Abdul Razzaq, President of Chitrali Bazaar, says demand spikes every winter. “Even though machine-made Chughas are more affordable, many still prefer the handcrafted ones for their uniqueness.”
Not every tailor can make a Chugha, he adds. “It has its own set of experts and they are highly respected in our community.”
Despite the competition from modern outerwear, the Chitrali Chugha endures not just as clothing, but as a living symbol of heritage.
Small Medium Entrepreneurs Authority (SMEDA) spokesman said that Govt was promoting such art through training to tailors and technology driven approaches.
He said special training was planned for professional training of tailors of Chitrali Chugha.
For craftsmen like Haji Fayaz, every stitch tells a story of family, culture, and quiet resistance against the tide of mass production.
As the chill deepens across Peshawar, so too does the appreciation for this woolen wonder. In homes across the city, the Chugha is not just pulled from closets but it is wrapped around memories, passed down through generations, and worn with pride.