Few cities in Indian subcontinent can be said to have had a more chequered history than Lahore. In the heyday of its glory as the Imperial capital of Mughals, a proverbial saying often hears was that ‘Isfahan and Shiraz together would not equal even half of LAHORE’.
There was something strikingly unusual about this golden land of dreams and legends. Lahore had captured the imagination of mighty men from far and near. Scholars, historians and travellers passing through the city were enchanted by its majesty and grandeur. A city is not merely its bazars and buildings. It is its atmosphere, ambience, moods of joy and sorrow, madness and sadness, fun and excitement and above all its people who constitute its soul.
My first lesson in geography included the study of Lahore district. We were expected to memorise the names of all the city gates-Raushnai, Kashmiri, Masti, Sheranwala, Yakki, Delhi, Mochi, Akbari, Shahalmi, Lahori, Mori, Bhati and Taxali. By the early 1930s, new residential areas were developed in different parts of the city, such as Krishan Nagar, Sant Nagar, Ram Nagar, Gwalmandi, Gandhi Square, Nisbet Road, Mozang and Quila Gujar Singh. Palatial modern kothis came up on Race Course Road, Jail Road, Davies Road, Montgomery Road, Abbot Road and Empress Road. A mohallah with a honeycomb of lanes and bylanes formed a little world by itself and provided for the residents a sense of togetherness. The interplay of historical forces had made the Muslims of Punjab less fanatic and the Hindus less orthodox. People enjoyed living in the homely environment of the gullies. There were several lofty houses and havelis. Social life in the city was by and large harmonious. The most valued gift of the British Raj was the freedom it gave to its subjects to practice and preach their own religions.
Like Sir Ganga Ram, Dayal Singh Majithia was a great philanthropist. He founded a school, a college, a library and an English newspaper, The Tribune
The menfolk rose early in the morning and usually went in groups for a walk towards the Ravi. The old and retired would go to Company Bagh Library, where they would go through all the dailies, such as Milap, Partap, Veer Bharat, Zamindar, Tribune, and pick up spicy news items for discussion. The favourite topics of conversation among them were the falling moral standards of the younger generation, the ailments they suffer from, and the best available cure. In order to keep fit, they would always be on the move.
The economic life of Lahore was dominated by Hindu Khatris and Aroras. They were engaged in commerce, merchandising, civil services and liberal professions such as law, medicine and education. The Khatris were first to go in for English education and to discard Persian, which was replaced by English as the language of administration.
Punjabi had no written script of its own. The Gurmukhi script, derived from Sanskrit. The British brought Urdu with them from United Provinces. Urdu emerged as the principal language of all the communities as a means of communication.
While the majority of the city population was Muslim, very few Muslims were engaged in business, and civil services. The most striking feature of Hindu society in Lahore was that, the Punjabi Brahmins did not enjoy any privileges or social status and exerted little or no influence on the community. Hindus were known to be frugal by nature. They piled up money but often gave much of it to charities. Wealth to Muslims was a passing show to be enjoyed while it lasted but not to be held on to. On the whole, the Lahorias were quite free spenders and liked to lead a good life.
After the great depression of 1930 and reservation of government jobs for Muslims and Sikhs, it became far more difficult for Hindus to secure suitable employment. Lahoris were most reluctant to leave the city for employment. The renowned educationalist Dr Prem Kirpal, with his Oxford degree, did receive some offers in the educational field in mofussil towns but declined. He followed the old maxim:
Khaiye kanak chaai bhugi howe
Raheye Lahore bhavein jhuggi howe
Take wheat even it is moth eaten, let it be a hut only but live in Lahore
The venue of all political meetings in the city was the famous Mochi Gate. This site was witness to a whole galaxy of political, social and religious leaders rousing their audiences to a pitch of excitement. Here, the most eminent poet Muhammad Iqbal is said to have recited his Jawab e Shikwa.
Pilgrimage of Lahore on Thandi Sarak: Cost in a Tongawas twelve aana for the first hour, ten for the second, and eight for the rest of the time. We proceed towards Gol Bagh, first stop at the museum, one of Lahore’s proud possessions. The adjoining stretch of Mall upto Anarkali Chowk can compete in beauty and majesty with any other roadway in the world. Close to the museum, there is Mayo Schools of Arts, and on the opposite side stands the Grand Punjab University Hall. The greatest tourist attraction in the vicinity is the historic Bhangianwali Tope, the celebrated Zamzamza where Kim Rudyard Kiplin played. The small section of the Mall from Gol Bagh to Anarkali Chowk was once called Exhibition Road. From here onwards the Mall swirls into the most magnificent part of the city. We pass the famous wine shop of Eduljee and then Devichand’s shop, Janki Das and co, Lloyds Bank, the Telegraph office, Imperial Bank and the imposing structure of General Post office. Now we enter the grandest part of the Mall , here Mcleod Road meets the Mall and at the junction facing the High Court stands a massive bronze statue of Sir john Lawrence.
Moving further, we face the famous Sir Ganga Ram Building, housing the leading chemists, Jagat Singh and Sons, and the great Dayal Singh Mansion. Like Sir Ganga Ram, Dayal Singh Majithia was a great philanthropist. He founded a school, a college, alibrary and an English newspaper, The Tribune. A little further it’s Standard Restaurant. Here full tea is for one rupee and four aanas eat as much of cake, pastries, sandwiches and patties at no extra cost. Next door is Regal Cinema. Now we reach a crossing where Hall Road joins the Mall. We pass by the grand Dingha Singh Building where Beadon Road extending from Mcleod Road joins the Mall, after that we reach the Charing cross, where we have the famous Queen Victoria’s statue installed in 1902. Behind the Queen’s statue is new building of the Punjab legislative Assembly at the confluence of Elgin Road and Montgomery Road. After a tiresome round of Lahore Zoo, we settle down at a Halwai near the zoo gate and eat peras and laddos with hot milk. We continue our ride to canal. The canal forms the south west boundary of Lahore, with the Ravi marking its boundary on the North West. This was a memorable four hour pilgrimage of the city of LAHORE.
Nevertheless, I belong to a generation born and brought up in Lahore. Even after the lapse of over five decades, my emotional attachment to the great city is as deep as ever. 1997
Memoirs of Pran Nevile: Lahore A sentimental journey.
The writer is a traveller and freelance writer based in UK