You must have heard a lot of ‘Gumti Bazaar Lahore’ for shopping on weddings and otherwise too, but I am sure that this market might sound new to the younger generation. Gumti Bazaar, which is located in the centre of the Walled City of Lahore, despite all the traffic jams and rush, is the most popular bazaar among women of the area. I think this is the only bazaar in Lahore which holds everything in it which interests the women and going there is very difficult because of the traffic congestion in routine days and especially on weekends, the women do make their way. This unique and one of the oldest bazaars of the walled city of Lahore has all the stuff which women love. You will find hundreds of shops in this bazaar selling gold, silver, artificial jewelry, laces for clothes, formal and casual ladies clothes and dress and leather and wooden items for day to day use in houses.
Another interesting fact about this bazaar is that it is for all, because it has the same items in different qualities and thus the prices also vary and people from all economic classes can buy whatever they want from this bazaar. Trust me it is not at all a small bazaar. As the wedding and winter season is approaching fast I am sure that now this bazaar will be packed more than it is in the summers. The Gumti Bazaar is accessible from all the gates of the Walled City Lahore as it was built in the center of the city.
If you wish to reach this bazaar the best route would be from Delhi Gate to Rang Mahal or from Lahnga Mandi trough the famous and notorious Taxali Gate. If I go I prefer it from Delhi Gate because the route is clear and does not have any traffic congestion and also there is a parking lot outside the gate, but you will need to walk to Gumti Bazaar. On your way to Gumti bazaar, you will also find countless eateries with all the traditional eating items and cuisines being sold there. This is an amazing attraction and trust me the quality of food is also good. After sunset, the bazaar glitters with shop lights and the colourful items displayed in the shops.
It would be right to say that this bazaar is one of the distinctiveness of the walled city and has cultural and historic importance as it was established during the Mughal era and with the passage of time, it expanded. You must be thinking that why I am describing this bazaar while the topic of this piece is Haveli of Blakki Shah. Well, there is a genuine connection between the both.
Let me take you to a marvelous Haveli inside the walled city which was built by a Hindu who was living there before partition. This haveli is situated in Gumti bazaar. This is one of the magnificent and showily decorated havelis of the walled city and is known as Kimla building or Haveli Blakki Shah. The name Kimla is inscribed on the buildings but it was built by Blakki Shah and thus it got known with both the names.
Not much has been written about this building maybe because it could not get the fame like other havelis of Lahore did. According to historic references it was constructed on April 17th, 1929, the date of its construction is also inscribed on the Haveli. The location of the building was selected in one of the posh areas of the walled city which was the main road of Gumti Bazaar and opposite to the Pani Wala Talaab which is the oldest water reservoir of Lahore built in 1883. As per historic accounts, it is revealed that the Gumti Bazaar area was among the posh localities of the walled city and till now, though much of the city fabric is gone, we see huge decorated buildings in this area.
Inside the haveli of Blakki Shah, till some years ago there was a doctor residing on the ground floor along with his clinic. The upper portion of the haveli was with a family who could not afford its maintenance. The locals of the area and the people living there told me that till almost a decade ago more families were residing in the building but they moved out of the walled city due to traffic mess and the dilapidation of this huge structure.
The beauty of the building can be judged by its beautiful white exterior which is opulently embellished with carvings and engravings. Inside the carvings we also see the signs of ‘OM’ inscribed in Hindi fonts. The carvings are so fine-looking and attractive that one can keep looking at the complicated art for hours. I think this is the only haveli inside Lahore now with this type of carving on its exterior which is an attraction for the tourists.
The back of the haveli is also richly designed and expresses the love for art of the owner, Blakki Shah, who built it. I will tell you later as to who he was, but let me take you into this gorgeous haveli. The interior of the haveli is as striking and picturesque as its exterior. There are numerous rooms interweaved inside the haveli which give an experience of the past bonded constructions. In old days the construction of the havelis and neighborhoods were to develop a strong bond among the people and that also kept the security of the place.
Sadly, at present the condition of the haveli is very derelict and the family living inside the haveli is also trying to move out. High rise plaza on one side of the haveli, towards Pani Wala Talaab, has been constructed and I think it will surely damage the beauty and foundations of this haveli.
Let me tell you an interesting connection of Gumti bazaar with the Kimla Building or Haveli of Blakki Shah. According to historic references, this bazaar was a Hindu populated bazaar and before partition most of the shops were owned by the Hindus of the area. The residential streets around Gumti bazaar still have names like Galli Kali Maata, Koocha Beli Ram, Koocha Harjis Roy and Koocha Hanuman. All these names also endorse that the area was owned by Hindus. According to the aged locals several temples were also located inside the Gumti Bazaar area. Krishna Mandir, Shivala Pandit Radha Kishan and Kali Maata ka Mandir were among the beautiful and known temples and apart from these there were several others in the narrow winding streets but now we don’t see any temples there.
Now let me tell you who Blakki Shah was! Blakki Shah was a Hindu businessman and known for lending loans on profit basis to the locals and was considered among the richest of the walled city of Lahore. His family was also among the wealthy ones and he had an eminent name in the city, as everyone knew him. Historic references tell that he, along with his sons, had his own business inside the walled city. The exact location of his business is not mentioned reference books, but if we go into the setting of the walled city Shah Almi or Gumti bazaar were the two main hubs where the Hindus had their settled businesses.
If this Haveli is restored it can be purchased by the government and the entire block including Pani Wala Talaab and Lahnga Mandi can be developed into a tourist spot with the food street and Chowk Heera Mandi’s food street nearby. The access to this haveli for the tourists can be made through Fort Road Food Street as well and I guess if this tour is developed it will become popular among tourists from around the world.
Published in Daily Times, November 4th 2018.