Satin slip dresses sashayed down the spring runways. Celebrities are wearing chokers on the red carpet. And here’s one more 90s revival for you; the chemical peel. After being eclipsed in the early 2000s by new skin-resurfacing lasers, these classic treatments are back on top in dermatologists’ offices. Turns out good old chemical peels can actually deliver certain skin benefits – like reversing melasma and breakouts, better than high-tech devices, says NYC-based dermatologist Dr Doris Day. By casting off dull surface cells, they improve fine lines, acne, discolouration and more.
And they do it for all skin types and colours – usually for a fraction of the cost of flashier options.
As with most old-is-new-again ideas, today’s peels aren’t just re-treads. The once-painful acid formulas that left skin raw and painful to touch have now been refined, and so have dermatologists’ approaches to using them. Our goal now isn’t so much to cause visible peeling as it is to infuse the skin with ingredients that diminish lines, build collagen and improve tone, says San Francisco-based dermatologist Dr Jennifer Linder.
In minutes, acids lift away dead cells and trigger a lovely chain reaction. As that topmost layer is shed, signals are sent to the living cells below to multiply and move up, to increase collagen production, to make more hyaluronic acid – to act younger. A thorough sloughing also offers one very immediate upshot: smoother skin that’s more radiant and receptive. Your skincare products perform better after a peel because there are no dead cells impeding their penetration.
There are chemical peels that are safe to use on every skin colour without risk of hyperpigmentation. We now know that using low percentages of multiple acids gives a better outcome with less irritation than a single acid at a higher strength, Linder says. Doctors have plenty of premixed cocktails to choose from, but a lot of them also cook up their own recipes to address very specific concerns.
Salicylic acid peels and Jessner’s peels dive deep into skin to unclog pores while also skimming the surface to erode blackheads and fade post-pimple marks. Another advantage of salicylic acid; it lingers in the pores, where it continues to keep them clear over time. This method beats most resurfacing lasers, plus there’s little to no downtime and it’s safe for all skin colours.
We don’t even like opening our eyes in the pool, so we’ll be the first to admit that acid near our eyeballs sounds dicey. But doctors say this works beautifully and safely on the hereditary dark circles created by piled-up pigment. They credit the form of the acid – 3.75 percent TCA and 15 percent lactic acid in a non-drippy gel carefully dispensed via a pen applicator – and the delivery system, which ‘drives the acid in deep, bypassing the epidermis to lessen irritation’. A series of treatments may be needed, but some people see a profound improvement after just one.
There isn’t a permanent cure for the recurring sun-triggered dark patches brought on by hormonal surges, but chemical peels offer the best fighting chance. Lasers may make lofty claims, yet ‘they’re essentially trying to treat a light and heat-sensitive condition with light and heat’. Even when a laser does eviscerate splotches, pigment often reappears weeks later, making lasers seem like a major investment for a short-term reprieve.