India and Pakistan have historically been political enemies. Yet, out of this discord comes a carefully choreographed ceremony at Wagah, border terminal between the two nations which also lies on the historic Grand Trunk Road. Pakistan-India relations have passed through good as well as bad times, but one thing never changed between these two countries: that is the Wagah border ceremony. It’s hard to believe the rationale behind the bizarre ceremony that transpires there every evening. From 1947 onwards, these two countries have usually had extremely tense relations. Yet every day, without any gap, these border gates are closed with pomp and show. The ‘retreat ceremony’ takes place daily at Wagah. Wagah village was divided during the 1947 Partition: the eastern half — now called Attari — is in India, while the western half is in Pakistan. In the past, this ceremonial exercise became less attractive — for good reason — but with the passage of time and the return of animus on both sides of the Radcliffe Line, the Wagah retreat ceremony has again started at a climax. Facial hair, special clothing, and dance moves from the public accompany the armed soldiers on both sides of the border as they carry out their drills like peacocks, and show that national tension can be put aside — or utilized, rather — for the sake of a good show. The show that happens each evening at Wagah has the sound effects of a crazed football match audience. This 15-minute ceremony manages to be ferocious, ridiculous and touching all in one. Pakistani soldiers wearing turbans topped with huge fans, both sides’ soldiers in shiny black boots with high kicks, and stern walks in front of each other. The crazed look in their eyes sometimes gives me shudders. Instead of showing the so-called border retreat ceremony, why don’t Pakistan and India start a cultural programme or musical concert together at the Wagah border that both sides can enjoy? In the background, slogans like Jeeve Jeeve Pakistan and Pakistan Zindabad are shouted from one side, while the other side yells Bharat Mata Ki Jai and Vande Mataram. Indian and Pakistani music is played. National passions are further enflamed by displays of precision nastiness in which outstretched thumbs are used to terrifying effect. But an old man wearing green robes runs hither and thither on the Pakistani side, then stands right in front of the gate, and waves a massive flag. The jeering crowd raises anti-India slogans and statements. I would like to know why the Pakistani Rangers don’t stop him for doing so; instead, they support him and allow him to encourage the Pakistani side in raising anti-India slogans. I have been there a couple of times, and everytime I stand there, the excitement level never subsides. The atmosphere is so electric and the disciplined show by the Pakistan Rangers and India’s Border Security Force is extremely charging. The aggression in the entire drill on both sides makes the crowd go crazy with patriotism. I could hear some anti-Pakistan statements from India’s side and some anti-India statements from the Pakistani side, all from the crowd of course: people yelling mindlessly. Of course, not everyone is like that, but a good proportion of the people are. If this is a ‘tradition’, it is indeed a sad one. Governments of both countries have created the basis of patriotism as hatred towards the other, so much so that it’s more than a ceremony. A few of my friends visit this border ceremony just to raise slogans against India; they always say that India is our foremost enmity. It’s really hard for anyone to truly understand the precision drill: it is a unique exercise with masterful demonstration of how angry you can get without hitting anyone. One can see rival soldiers show their strength, power and courage in front of each other. I believe the rivalry between India and Pakistan goes beyond the ceremony. People on both sides back their soldiers, and one can see patriotism at its best. I believe it is so wrong, even pathetic, that instead of both governments guiding their people towards amity, they are actually promoting aggression and hatred towards each other. I would like to suggest to the present government of both countries that instead of showing this sort of drama on the border, why don’t they start a cultural programme or musical concert at the border that both can enjoy, instead of enjoying by hating each other? Surely, if any tourist or foreigner wishes to see this false entertainment, he would laugh on that which both sides present: because in the real world where there are borders, there is no such spectacle, no gates that need to be banged shut, no joint ceremonies: just a quiet show. I would suggest Pakistan’s and India’s government to consider a scenario where it would be like the crowds on either side could simply walk up to each other, hug each other, and talk — perhaps even pass each other on their way along the Grand Trunk Road, as the custom once was before partition. Therefore, it is my request to the people of both sides to understand and at least not hate each other. We have the same blood, the same culture, the same food, similar festivals and ceremonies; when everything is almost the same, then why this hatred and enmity? Amazingly, birds still fly across this border, but a wall has been put up between humans. This is very unfortunate; for if we had stayed together, indeed this would have been a great country. Please, shun all this hatred; live and let each other live in peace. We have to get out of this rut that governments have created between us. The entire country needs to realize that being angry and hating our enemy is entirely useless. The writer is a social and political activist based in Lahore. He has done his Masters and MPhil in Communication Studies. He can be reached at salmanali088@gmail.com Published in Daily Times, September 15th 2017.