There is no denying that Sindh has a vast history of Sufi shrines which have a magnetic effect on people. Manghopir is one of the oldest areas of Karachi situated near Gadap Town.
Within this place, there are several ethnic groups including Muhajirs, Punjabis, Pakhtuns, Balochis, Sindhis, Memons and Ismailis, etc. This place is situated in the north of this bustling, chaotic and sprawling city and is mostly famous for the shrine of Sufi saint Pir Mangho.
If you head towards Naya Nazimabad and move ahead for five more minutes, you will reach the historic shrine.
The unique bit about this centuries-old shrine is a vast pond and a sulphur spring. The pond is populated by dozens of crocodiles who are regularly fed by visitors to the shrine.
But who was Pir Mangho?
As the story goes there is nothing concrete in myths. However, there is also no evidence of who actually is buried in the shrine.
Some historians say it is saint called Sakhi Sultan or a saint called Mangho or are these two people one and the same person?
One thing is for sure and many historians have also mentioned that Pir Mangho belonged to a Sheedi/Makrani community. This community were African slaves who were brought here by Persians and Arabs during the 17th Century. Every year the Sheedis gather in Manghopir, where they live for an entire week with their families and dance and sing in a festival called Sheedi Mela.
The unique bit about this centuries-old shrine is a vast pond and a sulphur spring. The pond is populated by dozens of crocodiles who are regularly fed by visitors. During Sheedi Mela, the elders of this community call out the heaviest and biggest crocodiles from the pool
During this festival, the elders of this community call out the heaviest and biggest crocodiles from the pool and once they are out, the caretaker feeds them sweets and meat and adorn them with red roses. When the crocodile eats the meat and raises its neck above the ground, the attendees believe their ritual has been accepted.
However, while entering the shrine, one can see a three-stair grave. Turn left from the graves and reach the entrance. Take your shoes off and take the token from a child in-charge of the visitors’ shoes. Climb up the staircase and you will reach the shrine. The caretaker in his loud voice tries to convince devotees to put a coin or two in the box. Within the premises of the shrine, there’s a detailed description written regarding Manghopir and his social services.
One can find a small bazaar near the shrine which leads you to the pond and the sulphur stream. In these narrow streets, you will find plenty of handicrafts and snack shops. Moreover, while entering the premises of the pond, the caretaker will ask you to buy some meat for the crocodiles so that these animals can pose for a picture with you. Also for entering, Rs 10 per person has to be paid. Once you are in, take a look at the mesmerising crocodiles which are in huge numbers, close to about a 100.
One can see them sunbathing in smelly grimy green water. Crocodiles are also sprinkled with colour and are served cooked food, sometimes halwa as a ritual. People here believe the crocodiles won’t attack them because they are the disciples of Manghopir. These crocodiles hardly move and give an impression of concrete blocks. The amazing moment takes place when a caretaker simply heads towards a few crocodiles who are lazily half asleep and stands with them to take selfies. This sight is absolutely terrifying for new visitors like me.
The responsibility of keeping them well fed is the Auqaf Department’s.
The writer is a social and political activist based in Lahore. He can be reached at [email protected] and Tweets at @Salmani_salu
Published in Daily Times, January 23rd 2019.