Oh no, what have I signed up for? A trip to ‘dreaded’ Swat in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa? Words like Taliban, breaking news, Malala and army operation kept flashing in my mind as I, along with some Pathan friends, made our way from Karachi to Islamabad via the comfortable green line train. We crossed through the heart of Punjab without any hiccups or delays; the attendants on the train were exceptionally forthcoming, looking after the passengers like their own personal guests. Then, from Islamabad onward, we trusted a rent-a-car service with our lives to take us to the Swat district. As a Canadian desi settled abroad for many years, I found me pinching myself as our car zig-zagged through the Malakand hills at the gateway of the Swat district. A YouTube clip of me being held hostage by terrorists would soon be circulating; much to the horror of my parents living in Toronto, I kept on visualising this. I was wrong. Extremely. In reality, Swat is nothing like what one imagines it to be: it is a quiet piece of jannat (heaven) that sits amongst towering mountains, a welcoming corner of Pakistan that asks for nothing from the traveller but only leaves one with a sense of unparalleled peace. This was not the Swat of the television and newspapers. It greets you like a friend: with open arms. Aur phir aapka saath nahin chorta Swat (and then Swat does not leave your thoughts). City dwellers like me are forever glued to our phones, updating our status, waiting to be ‘liked’ on Facebook — essentially, living to be validated by others virtually. Swat forces you to ditch your smartphone, look up and gasp! Is this beauty for real? The dancing river of Bahrain, the grey mountains of Fizzaghat and the shrubs and trees of various kinds are all awe inspiring. Every tourist spot and village seem to have been painted by nature in a colour of its own. This is where the Supreme One practices His art! Although as a female traveller I struggled initially with the dupatta (scarf) on my head, this was the change I had to make for northern Pakistan. However, after a couple of days, Swat enveloped me and seduced me in a charming way, so much so that I got used to the chaddar (covering) on me. My focus lay on consuming the sights and serenity. Apart from the stunning landscapes, good roads (for the most part, surprisingly), Swat arrests your heart. Go for the log (people)! Devoid of all city trappings, unprepared for any tezi (street smart) that one associates with big city people, the Swati people are a thriving community filled with warmth and love for all. In Toronto, one needs to make an appointment to meet their loved ones. In Swat, the doors are always open. Smiles are free. Affection towards a stranger is not a business transaction. The rohri (brother) on the road will eagerly guide you for directions and local children happily pose for pictures as well. A lot of schools can be spotted along the way and watching scores of children walking together, hand in hand, with their backpacks and enthusiasm in tow, is an encouraging sign. And no one stares at women like they do in Karachi. In Karachi, the female is literally a visual meal for lechers but that was not what I experienced in Khyber Pakhtunkhwa. Men looked away and glanced down when they spotted me. It was part of their great culture when they maintained a graceful distance. Swat has become synonymous with religious intolerance but did you know that it was once an important centre for Buddhism? I did not. The many stupas around are proof of that. Legend also has it that the Hindu god Lord Ram meditated for seven years in the forest of Mount Ilam. Those seeking inner peace, from various faiths, over time, have always chosen Swat for its pristine beauty and innocence. The azaan (call for prayer) at the white palace, a summer retreat of the former king of Swat now turned into a resort, is not to be missed. The echoes of Allahu Akbar evoke reverence from even the most spiritually lost souls. Canada offers beauty but developed villages, cell phone towers and empty worship places provide low spirituality. The fast life ensures lost souls. It would be phenomenal if the Khyber Pakhtunkhwa government promoted this multi-religious history aspect of Swat as one of its main attractions. Many goras (foreigners) may then take a flight to Saidu Sharif just as they do to Dharamshala in India or Kathmandu in Nepal. Fellow foodies need to lose some serious weight before they head up north. Kebab, karhai and fried fish, all served by riverside restaurants mean you will be planning the next day’s meal the night before. Go ahead, pig out. Or lets make it halal: dumba (goat) out! Lesser use of spices and down-to-earth eating mannerisms make meals a unifying factor amongst friends and family. Everyone dips their naan (bread) into one big pot of karhai. There is no you and I, even in food. The message is “we belong”. The Pathans have been known for their hospitality, bravery and keeping their word. This is, essentially, how the rest of the desi population viewed them but the narrative of late has turned to colours of extremism and rigidness. Further developing touristic spots and organising food walks and history walks run by informed guides would soften the harsh image of the region making it more appealing for outsiders. There is so much that Swat has to offer, it just needs a bit of a facelift. More importantly, they need to do everything to preserve the boundless beauty bestowed upon them and that means to stop cutting down the trees. Deforestation is a main concern and so is polluting the rivers. I did spot some junglee (hyper) tourists tossing kachra (litter), including plastic bags, right into the river. Pooray mulk ko kachra koondi samajh rakha hai logon ne (some people consider the entire country a trash can). However, poor social etiquette is an entire novel waiting to be written — more on that some other time. Towards the end of my journey, I felt sad to leave all this behind. The sound of the Suvastu River gushing by, winds hissing and birds singing were all asking me not to go. I had to, with a heavy heart but also lovely memories. Since then my mind keeps revisiting those sights. I have come back to my iPhone, television and noisy life but Swat whispers in my ears every now and then. In retrospect, I am willing to leave city life for a place in this heaven on earth. Sukoon ke liye Swat jayiye (for peace of mind may Swat always prosper)! The writer is a freelance columnist with a degree in Cultural Studies and a passion for social observation, especially all things South Asian. She tweets @chainacoffeemug