Daily Times

Nestled behind a tree near the Rawalpindi railway station is Lakhpati Serai, a small inn built for travelers decades ago still housing over fifty passengers daily.

When it first began serving weary travelers, the streets outside the railway station were filled with such overnight lodgings, with traditional rope beds (charpais) lining the roads at dusk, but now amidst urban growth it stands encircled by shops, edifices and hotels.

Raja Waqas, the current custodian of the Lakhpati Sarai, told the Daily Times that the inn had been overseen by his ancestors. However, two decades ago, he assumed the responsibility of managing the inn.

“We can lodge between 40-50 guests nightly,” he informed Daily Times from his modest establishment. The charpais are arranged side by side on the veranda outside, with the ancient peepul tree providing much-needed shade.

Waqas mentioned that initially, the staff of the inns used to make sales calls to offer accommodations to visitors arriving at Rawalpindi railway station. However, over time, numerous inns underwent a transformation, evolving into commercial hotels, marketplaces and other types of structures.

“Presently, the only remaining establishment at Rawalpindi Railway Station is the Lakhpati Serai. In the past, a bed could be rented for a nightly fee of only Rs 5. However, over time, this fee gradually increased. At present each charpai demands a rent of 150 rupees per night,” Waqas stated.

Haji Suleman, a frequent visitor, speaking to Daily Times mentioned, he visits Rawalpindi every month for medical treatment and always opts to stay at this serai due to its affordability and the owner’s readiness to assist him in various ways.

Suleman recalled how, twenty years ago he could rent a bed for seven rupees, whereas now he pays one hundred and fifty rupees for the same. He expressed his inability to afford hotel rooms which cost anywhere between a thousand to fifteen hundred rupees per day, compared to the one hundred and fifty rupees charged at the serai.

Waqas said, they used to accommodate up to one hundred and fifty travellers in the past, but due to increased expenses they now only cater to around fifty lodgers. The Serai consists of shared beds in rooms adjacent to each other with a common area accommodating ten to fifteen beds. Waqas informed, the central section of this inn comprised an open-air arrangement with an adjacent shed housing around 10 to 15 beds. During the summer season one fan was allocated for every four to five beds, whereas the winter season sees passengers provided with warm quilts and blankets.

Waqas added that currently, about 40 to 50 travellers find their way to the inn for an overnight stay. Two innkeepers remain vigilant throughout the night, ensuring the safety of both travelers and their belongings. A strong emphasis was placed on maintaining cleanliness within the inn, with bed linens changed daily.

He stated, adequate restroom facilities are also available. The majority of the guests come from the less privileged class seeking relief from the high costs of hotel accommodations. Consequently, they opt for the inn exclusively for a one-night stay.

Waqas also shared that a majestic, towering tree graces the inn’s premises, casting cooling shade throughout the day. He also mentioned the installation of fans during the night further enhanced the overall atmosphere.

Despite the declining profits, Waqas expressed determination to continue this service as according to him serving humanity brings him immense satisfaction, which outweighs any financial gains.