Daily Times

“O breeze, convey this message of mine to the graceful Gazalle:

‘You have driven me to roam over mountains and deserts in search for you’

(Hafiz Sheerazi)

It was the call of time. It was the call of pulsating glaciers and; above all, it was the call of a beloved friend, Akbar Jan who kept inviting me to visit Skardu, to witness the beauty of the land of diverse attractions.

At last, out of love and curiosity, I left Shahdadpur for Skardu with my cousin, Syed Faheem-Uddin who is also a great admirer of nature. On 29.06.2022 by Hazara express receiving a warm see-off by our families, we arrived at Rawalpindi Railway Junction the next day at 2:30 PM. Though we were much tired, yet out of enthusiasm, we just took bath and satiated our hunger with some snacks and then headed towards Skardu by Faisal movers, one of the finest bus services in Pakistan at 6 PM.

The bus was very comfortable, so was the journey. Soon it turned dark, we fell asleep. When it dawned, I pushed away the curtain of the bus and started watching the outside landscapes. Oh my God! What a scene! The whole surroundings as well as the atmosphere had magically been changed. River Indus was swiftly flowing between the gigantic mountains of Chillas region. That fascinated scenes overwhelmed me. I uttered in monologue that if Kashmir is “Jamal( the beauty) of God”, this region is reflecting “Jalal(the majesty) of Him”.

Alhumdulillah, the next day at 11 o’clock, we were at Skardu. Love has wings. Amiable Akbar Jan received us with the happiest gratitude. He had already booked our room in a most fascinating guesthouse; The Holiday Inn, which is famous for its comfortable living, caring staff and splendid dining area. Soon, a new Toyota corolla arrived and there came out the most caring and facilitating driver of Skardu region; Shujaat Bhai who became our nice companion of the trip. In ten minutes we were at Holiday Inn.

We were overtired now but our eyes were searching for something beautiful that would peel off the darkness of the gloomy days. So, after taking two hours of rest, we headed towards the all-time famous Shangrila Resort.

No words can explain the beauty of lower and upper Kachura Lakes. If the lower Kachura Lake is an open love, the upper Kachura Lake is a hidden one. If the former is beautiful, latter is graceful. My cousin Syed Faheemuddin was so impressed that he cried out of pleasure “Hurrah, I am done with my trip”.

We also enjoyed boating in lower Kachura Lake and watching the green waters of upper Kachura Lake as evening was falling down upon her mysteriously.

Our next day’s destinations were all-time adoring Manthokha Waterfall, Cold Desert, Satpara Lake and Bhudda Rock.

So, after having enjoyed the Shangrila site, we returned to Holiday Inn, had our dinner and went to sleep in no time. The next day, instead of the call of the Muzzan, we were woken up by the sweet chirping of birds. After offering Fajar prayer and taking breakfast, we left for Manthokha waterfall. Still, we were half a mile away from sight. The sound of pouring water of the stupendous waterfall could be heard. Oh my God! Yesterday we enjoyed silent waters; today we will be highly amused with sounding waters. Before entering the waterfall directly, first we enjoyed delicious chicken Karhai made by my cousin Syed Faheemuddin beside an icy crystal clear fast flowing spring. Then after taking memorable pictures there, we moved to waterfall. No sooner did we reach there, we forgot to blink our eyes. We saw the water was falling down like pearls from the top of the mountains as if a mighty king was blessing his people with a fresh and adorable life through pouring upon them pure water. We spent two hours there and were incarnated with a new fresh life.

Now, we had to move towards Cold Desert, a unique sight of Skardu showing magical impulses of the land. To me, it was incomprehensible how desert and river go side by side. Incidentally, it was hot there. So, we left for Satpara Lake expecting a cool touch there. Luckily our expectations were fulfilled there.

How smoothly and calmly the green water of the lake was flowing. It was a sight so touching in her majesty. We felt as if she were healing us like a nurse.

On the left side of the lake, there is a beautiful village of Ali Muhammad Satpara, a National Hero, the son of the mountains, who has, at last, reverted to them. I thought, every evening,  Satpara Lake also misses him as well.

The last sight of the day was centuries-old Buddha Rock where Buddha with his inheritors, was engraved so artistically. I saw Buddha still in meditation spreading his universal message of peace, peace and peace. In Hindi, it is translated as “Shanti” that whosoever is delighted in solitude is either a wild beast or a god. The day waned and we returned to the guesthouse.

The next day, we visited Khaplu, the land of historical places and mystery, we found Khaplu so neat and clean and full of Apricot trees that we couldn’t help adoring it. After having covered miles we became thirsty as well as hungry. Fortunately, while heading towards a hill, we found a place where crystal clear spring was flowing and the surrounding area was covered with the lush green landscape where flowers were blooming, and butterflies were hovering. Again our hunger was satiated by the more delicious chiken karhai and we drank cold water of the spring to make this day unforgettable.

After ten minutes drive, we arrived at “Khankah Chuaqchan” built by Mir Syed Ali Hamdani (RA) who converted Bhudist Balti people into Islam. No doubt, the art and architecture of Khankah was so impressive. We offered Nama-ze-Zohar there. After offering prayer, Mango Baba, a devotee who devoted his life for the service of the Khankah, started narrating the old century events in the Balti couplets that how did Mir Syed Ali Hamdani (RA) arrive at Gilgit Baltistan and encounter with Bhuddist Lama through his spiritual powers and matchless character. He recited the events in such a soulful and melodious way that it took us to the time when hundreds of mystics and spirituals used to meditate and adore God day and night at Khankah. For the sensitive souls, the fragrance of such noble souls are still there. We also visited other Khankah which is beautifully made of wood. Then we had a pleasant time in Khaplu saling resort. The sun was setting now and the next day it is to be rising on Deosai!

Deosai is a daydream of every nature and adventure-loving expeditor but, this dream is not fulfilled for everyone. Luckiest we were that had a heavenly trip on it. Deosai fills the brain with mesmerizing images, its blue and black waters, everlasting meadows, matchless spreading flowery lands, melting glaciers, brown bears that look annoyed with every intruder like us, naughty marmots and above all, Sheosar Lake(The Largest lake in Deosai National park is also one of the world’s highest altitude lakes) that seems violet and majestic when the sun says goodbye to the earth. After having seen all those worthy sights I came to know for the first time why words worth’s heart dance with the daffodils and how the flowery band binds us to the earth and above all how good things are always wild and free. What impressed me too much in Deosai, was its instantly changing weather. When we entered Deosai, the sun was rising, soon the clouds covered the area and it started raining with hailing, and in the last, a rainbow was seen at the horizon.

After crossing Deosai, we entered all time beautiful Astore valley but it was getting dark, we remained devoid of seeing another classical valley of Pakistan. My heart was saddened but, When I looked at the sky on a cold night, it was filled with numerous shining stars. It reminded me of a great poem of Joseph Blankowhite: Night’

“Night Mysterious night! When our first parent knew

Thee from report divine, and heard thy name,

Did he not tremble for this lovely frame,

This glorious canopy of light and blue ?

Yet’ neath a curtain of translucent dew,

Bathed in the rays of the great setting flame,

Hesperus with the host of heaven came,

And lo! Creation widened in man’s view.

Who could have thought such darkness lay concealed

Within thy beams, Oh Sun! Or who could find,

Whilst flower and leaf and insect stood revealed,

That who such countless orbs thou mad’st us blind!

Why do we then shun Death with anxious strife ?

If Light can thus deceive, wherefore not life ?

When it dawned, we travelled to Babusar Top. It was no less than a heavenly touch. We took breakfast at moon restaurant and continued our journey. Readers can imagine our further journey as if we were flying over the mountains with the company of clouds in the finest weather crossing Narran and kaghan valleys.

We reached Rawalpindi at 2:30 PM on Wednesday. After taking one day rest in a hotel, the next day we set our journey by Faisal movers bus service and returned Shahdadpur the following day at 4:00 AM, as our loved ones were passionately waiting to receive us especially my youngest daughter Mafaza.

Special thanks to Akbar Jan and Shujaat Bhai, whose utmost love and devotion made this trip unforgettable and everlasting!

The writer is working as Assistant Professor at Govt. Boys Degree College Shahdadpur.

Email: asyedmasood055@gmail.com