It’s best to arrive in good time for your table at Frevo, in New York’s Greenwich Village, to allow for walking straight past it a couple of times, as I do on a dark and drizzly Saturday evening. For this one-of-a-kind restaurant has a cunning disguise – it lies hidden behind a discreet art gallery. And to gain access, you step behind one of the genuine works of art, Hogwarts-common-room-style. The art gallery features rotating solo exhibitions from established and up-and-coming artists such as Brooklyn-based Khari Turner and French abstract painter Toma-L. Behind the art is a moodily lit 14-seat counter wrapped around a spotless stainless-steel kitchen, where a tightly choreographed brigade of highly talented chefs, led by Brazilian Franco Sampogna, produce an avant-garde tasting menu of the highest calibre. I perch at the end and notice that every person who enters is giddy with excitement. And so they should be, because Frevo is surely one of Manhattan’s choicest places to dine.
Leave a Comment