Daily Times

Schnitzel Forever, a small restaurant in London’s Stoke Newington, is the cornerstone of a blossoming high street chain with many outposts across the country. It just doesn’t quite know it yet. This is not damning with faint praise. We are, of course, required to venerate the independent over the mass-produced and cookie-cutter, and we do. Even the very word “chain” makes people twitch. I realised recently that I substitute the word “group” to describe a restaurant brand with multiple outposts that I admire, so as not to smear it with the rancid stench of chain corporatism. But, in truth, the eight-strong Dishoom, which I like very much, is just a chain by any other name. And is not the ever-delightful steakmongers Hawksmoor, now with 12 outlets, also a chain? Over the years, brands like Piccolino (18 branches), Côte and Nando’s have served me well. Many chains are, of course, where hope and ingredients go to die. Oh Frankie & Benny’s, how do I loathe thee? Let me count the ways.