Sehwan Fort — uncovering the marvel of Sindh

Author: Muzammil Ferozi

Sindh counts among the most distinguished places in the world which has historical forts, holy shrines and other places of worship. But these incredible historical sites have been lost their glory with the passage of time and fort of Sehwan is one of them.

According to archaeological experts, the history and traditions of this fort are so complex, based on deep and speculative views that it is impossible to uncover them and to reach the real facts scientifically. International tourists and researchers have different opinions about the history of the fort, while there are different opinions from local researchers too.

This mysterious fort of Sehwan, which real name is also unknown to the people, is called Sikander’s Fort, Kafir Fort, Old Fort or now Sehwan Fort while the locals know the place as Utti Basti.

According to Lieutenant Willam Edwards, an official of the British army, wrote in his book ‘Sketches in Scinde’ written 171 years ago that old castle, the erection of which is attributed to Alexander is perhaps the only veritable relique of Greek, which can be traced in Sindh.

William expressed dismay at the worsening castle in Sehwan, which has now turned into a mound and hardly can guess that there had been a castle at that site adding that “The local people now call it Kafir Qila [infidel castle] presuming that a cruel king used to live in it”.

As per Willam Edwards research it is said that the fort was built by Alexander the Great that is why it’s known as Alexander’s Fort too. But many researchers believe and there are other evidences to show that the fort had existed before Alexander entered in Sindh (that era Hindustan) and it he might have repaired it for his army requirements.

The famous historian Bherumal Meharchand Advani has also referred in his book as old castle of Sehwan.

History shows that the ruler of Sehwan was King Sambus in 326 BC, and King Sambus rebelled against Sikinder. At the time of invasion of Alexander, the Great, Sehwan was called “SEVESTAN”. It is estimated that the fort was built about 600 BC before the time of Rai Sahasi II as Rai Sahasi died in 603 AD. Hence, the fort was conquered by Muhammad bin Qasim in 713 AD when Raja Dahir was defeated at the battle of Debal, after that Shah Baig Arghoon vacated Sehwan with the rulers in 1520, but yet researchers were unable to say when and how the castle was built and began to fall; only mouth to mouth stories are known today.

According to Archaeologist the arches of the fort and other characteristics are oriental and not Grecian. The brick-work, like that of Kalan Kot Fort in Thatta, and the name “Kafir Qila” also points to the fact that Sehwan Fort may have been built during Hindu Rule and it is an old town of pre-Islamic period.

The ancient fort lies north of the town and is a massive burnt brick structure laid in mud mortar. The core of the fortification wall is filled with puddle earth. The defensive walls are roughly rectangular in shape, with traces of machicolations (a floor opening between the supporting corbels of a battlement, through which stones, or other objects, could be dropped on attackers at the base of a defensive wall). At the top of the fortification ground area there are modern structures built by Sindh Government. At the side of the Fort area, there are deep ditches dug by French Archaeological Mission.

In accordance with the Dr Michel Boivin in his memory of Sindh wrote that I have keen interest in Sehwan it was because of the large amount of work already done in the Purana Qila or Alexander`s Fort by French archaeologist but none of them has come to the conclusion, however nothing has been there to come to an end.

Director General Antiquities and Archaeology Manzoor Ahmed Kanasro told Daily Times that French Archaeologist Professor Dr. Monique Kervran has worked extensively with Mazhar Ali Meerani, Assistant Director of Archaeology in 2002-2003, adding that she did a lot of excavations work on the Purana Qila or Alexander`s Fort in Sehwan.

Further he said that Provincial Minister for Culture and Tourism Sindh Syed Sardar Ali Shah, is very much serious to preserve the heritage and we are doing utmost to conserve and restore the heritages as the antiquities which were taken out during digging of French archaeologist have been kept in the Sehwan Museum. The Department has also built a rest house to facilitate visitors to Sehwan, he added.

While inspecting the area around the fort, there was a rest house where the locals proclaimed that the residence of a police officer is, there was no one in the rest house.

The Common folk tale is related to this fort, the story goes that the ruler of Sehwan grew fearsome of the popularity of Lal Shahbaz and Bodla Bahaar and ordered to slaughter Bodla Bahaar into pieces. The soldiers executed the order and scattered his body pieces. When Lal Shahbaz heard of the incident, he called the name of his favorite disciple and his chopped up body transformed back into Bodla Bahaar to answer back to his master’s call! When the ruler still did not heed to Lal Shahbaz’s preaching, Bodla Bahaar on the orders of Lal Shahbaz turned the whole fortress upside down. People claim that the ruins still show an upside down settlement.

Now this unknown and forgotten fort is not attracted by people because it’s all remaining particles are missing and somewhere the solid red bricks fixed in walls are shown. Secondly, land near to the fort has been occupied by some natives of province.

Voice of Sindh took this initiative to promote Sindh’s rich culture and heritage for tourism, for the same Voice of Sindh take some journalists to discover the hidden secrets of the ancient and mysterious castle attached to the shrine of Lal Shahbaz Qalandar in Shewan Sharif and to depiction the people to this ancient heritage.

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