Daily Times

There are many differences between Lahore and Karachi. The one immediately noticeable is that people from Karachi, or Karachiities, constantly brag about how they’re so much better than Lahore at everything. “Even the KFC tastes better in Karachi,” one diehard Karchiite said. Classy, I thought. Anything tastes better with paan, I suppose.

Unfortunately, they are not wrong. As a proud Lahori, it pains me to concede, but after spendingweeks in Karachi this is the honest-to-Godverdict: when it comes to food Karachi is the greatest city in Pakistan. Allow me to explain.

Cheap street food: Karachi restaurants have infinitely more variety. The Bahadurabad neighbourhood is full of street food vendors specialising in Hyderabadi cuisines and plenty more. It’s easy on the pocket heavy on the flavours. Bun-kebabs are all around. Alamgir Hotel’s famous lachaydar paratha, a mix of croissant, paratha and puri, alone is enough to dethrone any city in Pakistan.

“But what about Gawalmandi?” my Lahore brethren might say. Well, the last time I wentthere it took me an hour to get there, the meal cost an arm and a leg, and the cook tending to a stove got some kind of vitamin injection in full view of his customers while continuing to stir with his other arm. He then threw the needle on the street.

Chai: Maybe it’s the abundance of space or the cool evening sea breeze that beckons people to relax in courtyards as they wrap up their day, but there is a chaiwala in every corner. Chotu Chai Wala and Fibbi in DHA are casual dives for just that. But the chai in Alamgir Hotel, according to Gambi, a Lahore based roaster, “is so good you’ll stop drinking coffee.” But Karachi still doesn’t have a Coffee Bean and Tea Leaf while Lahore has three so.

As a proud Lahori, it pains me to concede, but after spending weeks in Karachi this is the honest-to-God verdict: when it comes to food Karachi is the greatest city in Pakistan

Sushi Sumo has two very convenient locations in Lahore and they’re good, but The Sakura on the panoramic top floor of Karachi’s iconic PC Hotel is the be-all and end-all of that category.

Burgers: DHA Karachi is burger country. Every block has a shop that’ll blow your mind. All pilgrims must first have a ceremonial meal at Mr Burger just out of respect. Aussie Burger Company, 2 Guys 1 Grill, and No Lies Fries are where the pros go. I personally love Easy by Fatso’s standard cheeseburger. A veteran tip is to order their mini sliders and tell them to make all three hunterbeef. You’re welcome.

Chinese: Until Bamboo Union and Yum open shop in Karachi, that trophy remains in Lahore.

Fine Dining: Every Karachi foodie swears the city’s best eatery is the Mediterranean-themed Okra. Why, that remains a mystery. On my first visit, the only reason I force-finished my Ravioli was out of respect sinceI was someone’s guest. Subsequent trips weren’t impressive either. The appetizers are great, but good olive oil and fresh lettuce can only get you so far.Okra is a status symbol for sure, and maybe after waiting 20 minutes outside in the humidity for a table will make anything taste good. Café Flo is another preferred hotspot of Karachi’s glitterati. But again, all hat and no cattle.

Amu in Lahore is the undisputed king of fine dining. It’s hands down the best restaurant in Pakistan. It serves a fixed-menu dinner only on weekends and a Sunday brunch so good you’ll want to name your children Beef Brisket and French Toast. Amu doesn’t advertise but most people may have seen a picture of its gold-rimmed door in the background of every other girl on Instagram. I always wondered how many of them turned around and went home after.

Cafes: Deli and The Pantry in Lahore were pioneers but Test Kitchen isworld class at par with any café you could find abroad. Their sandwiches are works of art, and their baked goods masterpieces. Ironically, their croissant is cheaper than the one at McDonald’s.

Desserts: Reema’sFrozen Peach Cheesecake and Chocolate Gateux Cake, and Mrs Munawer’sfamedMilk Cake don’t leave much room for debate. Lahore puts up a fight here. When it comes to local sweets and halwas Lahore wins. Karachiites concede that Lahore’s Cosa’s Gelato ice cream reigns supreme. Although Delicieux’sDouble Lotus Milk Cake gives Mrs Munawar a run for her money, the fluffy Plain Glazed and Hazelnut Chocolate donuts at Easy’sTilt this to Karachi.

Pizzas: Famous O’s pepperoni pizza and Xander’s Fig and Goat Cheese should make Lahore’s pizzerias ashamed of themselves.

Chat: Its sweet and spicy, cheap and exquisite. The Khaas Moong ChaatfromMirchili in Badar Commercialis the perfect snack. It’s an ingenious concoction of nimko, daal, crunchy papri, sugared yougurt, and tangytamarin sauces. Sadly, that entire genre is missing from Lahore’s food scene.

Biryani: Sindhi Biryani with potato and without potato, Shrimp and Mint Green Biryani, Pickled Mango Buryani, Fig Biryani, pick your poison. The Sindhis have mastered this domain.

It goes without saying thatKarachi has seen better days. It’s been a proxy battleground of artificial and unnatural political entities for decades. Its governance has been dismal. But despite that Karachi continues to endure with hope, innovationand grit. May that always be.

The writer can be reached at skhanzada@ymail.com