May it be art, fashion, gourmet food or patisseries, Paris lures you.
Interestingly, my earliest childhood memories are of Paris, so my to-do-list included things that I had done as a child, at least those I remember, vividly. My romance with Paris is multifold; I cherish art, architecture, literature, theatrical and operatic performances, and that is not it, my indulgences include: steaks, cheese, and pastries. Since restraint is not my strong suit, Paris lures in ways I can not put in words.
If you truly want to savour Paris, learn to pause to relish. And let your guard down and walk aimlessly with a vague sense of direction. To clarify what I mean by pausing, a good example would be to gaze at Mona Lisa from every angle to reassure that indeed she appears smiling from every angle as the master intended and intently examine her fingers and posture as opposed to a quick selfie. Louvre’s management would shrug on the thought of this because 30,000 people, as per the museum, line up each day to watch Mona Lisa, but you know what I mean.
An average traveller spends two and a half days in Paris, according to an estimate, which is not nearly sufficient time to get a feel of the city. If you are in for a romance with Paris, a week is a must, as she takes a while to unveil her beauty.
I reached Paris on a grey-rainy-November afternoon. As soon as I realised that it was not a night to walk around Paris, I booked to watch the “Totally Crazy Show” that has dazzled its audience for 65 years now. Whilst booking, I asked the lady where it its located and she quickly responded “oh! it is very close to where Lady Diana died.” It is interesting how she continues to live in the hearts of people. After checking into my room, I took the train to Arc Di Triomphe and walked through Champs-Elysées to get to the Crazy Horse. It was beautiful to be back in Paris after a long time.
The following day is a day I will never forget because I was on invitation to see the largest ever Leonardo da Vinci exhibition in Louvre on his 500th death anniversary. “Bring your passport and meet me at the pyramid at 11:30am” wrote the Louvre staffer, which made me feel like Professor Robert Langdon, because on that day Louvre was closed to public.
If you truly want to savour Paris, learn to pause to relish. And let your guard down and walk aimlessly with a vague sense of direction. To clarify what I mean by pausing, a good example would be to gaze at Mona Lisa from every angle to reassure that indeed she appears smiling from every angle as the master intended and intently examine her fingers and posture as opposed to a quick selfie
For anyone visiting Paris, the permanent collection is a must, where some of the major masterpieces reside. The da Vinci exhibition was, however, one in a millennia opportunity to see 162 pieces attributed to the master and his pupils, of which 11 paintings and 115 drawings-including the Vitruvian Man, proof of the Pythagorean theorem, etc-were attributed to the master himself. This exhibition was a dream I did not have the audacity to dream yet it came true.
I celebrated my intimate encounter with da Vinci’s works at the Lido-dubbed the ode to Paris-that night. The dinner at Lido was flavourful and everyone played their part beautifully. I second Lido’s writer and director Franco Dragone claim that Lido’s theatrical performance is “a slice of heaven.”
To cherish the full flavour of the Parisian experience, a night out to watch a spectacle that includes French can-can is a must. The choices are many, but if you have to do one go the world-famous Moulin Rouge.
If I have to rate the spectacles, Moulin Rouge takes the top spot being Paris’ ultimate theatrical experience for 130 years, with a history worth boasting: where Frank Sinatra, Lisa Minelli and Elton John performed. If you want to be awestruck with 60 world class artists on the stage, Moulin Rouge is the place. Then, Lido is a close second where you are not missing out on anything. The third spot is a tie between The Crazy Show and the Paradis Latin; the latter has an added bonus of a fully immersive and an all-rounded experience, with a hilarious piece in which the woman relentlessly targets the man in a near-death act.
A walk on Rue de Rivoli-especially if you fancy designer couture and jewellery-should be on the list. A stop at Angelina Rivoli for their heavenly french onion soup and macrons is a fantastic choice. If you have a sweet tooth like myself, have the world’s finest African hot chocolate and their signature Mont-Blanc pastry. I have been asked how this pastry is any different than others and this is what I have to say: When you eat a pastry and you can taste sugar, it’s a run-of-the-mill pastry, but when you eat a pastry that enchants your tastebuds without the overwhelming taste of sugar, then it is perfect. When you eat Mont-Blanc-hazelnut or pistachio-you will know the difference.
A visit to Paris is incomplete without a visit to a chateau to witness the French frivolousness: tapestries, decadent bedrooms with canopies, made-to-order cutlery and a long history lesson. I, for no particular reason, went to Chateau Fountainbleau before I went to the more frequented Chateau Versailles; whilst the facade of the former is not well kept, you will enjoy the space. And the style is similar to Versailles.
But to be blunt, the gardens and the fountains of Versailles are not to be missed. I got my skip-the-line Versailles ticket and audioguide for a discounted price from headout.com which was worthwhile. I used a Navigo Pass to go around Paris, to get to palaces that are away from the city centre and also Euro Disney; a weekly pass costed me under 25 euros which is what one would pay for a shuttle roundtrip. The Versailles guide politely warned: “don’t give business to the pickpockets”-a necessary caution. If you are in Versailles and aim to do the zigzag gardens on foot, definitely stop at Angelina for lunch before you leave the palace; you will need calories.
I briefly looked around the Musee d’Orsay, which is another terrific place to spend time for an art buff, and walked to Musee Rodin with an impulsive detour to the Notre Dame cathedral which is now closed for restoration. The cathedral transported me to my art humanities lecture in college when I was trying to grapple with how the flying buttresses distribute tons of weight. I hope the cathedral returns to its glory and reopens soon to enchant visitors.
Since I have an intellectual affinity with Auguste Rodin’s The Thinker dating back to my days at Columbia University where a smaller version of the sculpture sits right outside the philosophy hall, thus I visited Musee Rodin. My years in college is responsible for my study of art, architecture, music, and literature, all of which beautifully intertwined to make my Paris trip more educational and delightful. If you have a fancy for sculptures, a visit to the Musee Rodin is a pilgrimage.
Walking in Paris is a delight. That is what makes you fall in love with it and this is one thing that does not come with a price tag. Whilst walking somewhat aimlessly, I came across a tall human sculpture with much of its body missing titled Pierre David Tryptique that beckoned my attention at Malaquais Quay. This Bruno Catalano’s sculptor forced me to fill the void in the sculpture and I yearned to know its story as if there was one and the reason for this void. After some meditation, I realised that the sculptor is possibly a reminder that we all have a void in us that we try to fill each day. It is a fascinating piece and I am glad that our rendezvous was serendipitous and it caught me by surprise and jarred me to wonder about the sculptor. Now you know why I say Paris can not be done in two and a half days.
Walking further, I came across lover’s locks on the sides of the bridge that could not carry the burden of love locks weighing 45 tonnes and thus testifying to the promise of nearly a million lovers, thus they had to be cut. Still, the lovestruck find ways to lock their love. I feel this adds to the romance in the air.
To stay, choosing the right endorsement is key. Les Piaules was my home for a week in Paris; it is modern, clean, centrally located and the staff is wonderful. At the reception, Juliette was my go to person for where to eat; Tony proved to be a master navigator; and what I relish the most is peppermint tea and honey from a lovely lady at the bar who learned that I was down with cold. Les Piaules was more than I could ask for and definitely money’s worth. You do not want to stay in the suburbs and waste time traveling to Paris.
The dinner cruise with Bateaux Parisiens was unexpectedly a fantastic dinner out. It is not easy to do such a niece meal in a cruise for so many people, but wonderfully timed three-course meal was delicious. The server even walked the guests through the landmarks along the way and did so effortlessly. Each and everything down to the macrons and the variety of teas available was absolutely fantastic.
Another addition to the itinerary is a visit to the Palais Garnier, even if you are not an opera buff like me. The staircase and the stunning ceiling is breathtaking. I watched Aribert Reimann’s Lear which is inspired by my most favourite play: King Lear. The internal turmoil embedded in theme of this Shakespeare play comes to the fore brilliantly in an operatic performance and the credit goes to Bo Skovhus who played a convincing Lear struggling with his ill fate, as evident in these lines: “Where am I? Is it day? I don’t know what to say. Are these hands mine? How i long to know who I am? (Lear , Act II, scene 6). I have been a theatre and opera critic for long enough to say that Shakespeare would have been agreeable with this operatic performance.
On my last night out, I went back to the Louvre and pyramid looked gorgeous with its mirror image on the water fountain. I walked around the square and reflected on life, primarily because I had trotted the same path as a child and now I am mature man that summoned brief inward reflection. I rejoiced the realisation that I have lived a full, meaningful life. My gaze wandered for a while and remained fixed on the lit-up Eiffel Tower; she looked so beautiful from a distance draped in lights. I walked to Arc de Triomphe where I had started my venture a week ago and bid Paris nights farewell with a little prayer to return in happiness. The memories of Paris continues to play a romantic symphony in my heart. I yearn to see her again.
The writer is a broadcaster and an educationist. He can be reached at mfahadfaruqui@gmail.com
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