Daily Times

Turkey is more famous for its cosmopolitan city Istanbul but Ankara and its suburbs are fresher in my memory especially for what was discovered in Cappadocia and underground cities in Central Turkey during many visits there.

Going for the historical perspective it was found that erosion shaped the incredible landscape of Turkey’s Göreme valley.

Thousands of years ago however, humans took guidance from Mother Nature and began carving an incredible chamber and tunnel complex into soft rock. It ended up in the beginning of the fourth century A.D., as an urbanized, but underground cultural landscape.

Ancient volcanic eruptions blanketed this region with thick ash, which solidified into a soft rock, called tuff which was tens of metres thick. Then wind and water went to work on this plateau, leaving only the harder elements behind to form a fairy tale landscape of cones, pillars, pinnacles, mushrooms and chimneys known as fairy chimneys, which now stretch as far as 40 metres into the sky.

Tahir Anwaar Pasha mentions in his book ‘Turki Main Pasha’ (Pasha in Turkey) that he travelled from Anatolia to Cappadocia by a comfortable bus. The hotel where he and other fellow tourists stayed was carved in hill owned by Ibrahim Yalmaz; the latter advised them to take advantage of hot air balloon and Sufi Dance. Paying separately for the hot air balloon, the tourist took a bus. On way they passed through Goreme National Park.The essential features of Goreme Historical National Park in Cappadocia are unusual rock formations known as “fairy chimneys.” These natural wonders are augmented by the cultural heritage of the region’s inhabitants, who as far back as the third century hewed homes, churches and entire underground cities into the landscape. On the way they witnessed three hillocks with sharp cornered peaks namely three sisters. The myth is that a princess married a Sheppard against the will of the emperor. She bore a son and returned to her father with the hope that she was pardoned. That was not to be and she fled. On way she prayed that she, her husband and the child were turned into stones to be spared from the wrath of emperor’s soldiers. So her prayers were granted. These hills are also called ‘three graces’ or ‘three beauties’ (Page 162).

Pasha. prior to his visit to Central Turkey spent detailed time in Istanbul; Sultan Ahmad Mosque, Aaya Sofia, Topkappy Palace and Museum, Grand Bazar and seven hills of Istanbul. From here, he went to Channak castle and the onwards to Celcuk. The latter is situated in Izmir. Celcuk is a small historical city with the ruins Ephesus, just at two kilometres distance. Included in the Seven Wonders of the World is also located here called Temple of Artemis. Other notable places located here is house of Virgin Mary and Celcuk Art. Celcuk is a dynasty of Turks on whose name this city was named in the twelfth century (Page 116). Pasha’s hotel Palm Hotel was located twenty kilometers away on seaside in the place namely Kusadasi, a tourist town. Ephesus, to Pasha was like Pothohar area in Pakistan, Pasha thought. Temple of Artemus was left with just one minaret, a little disappointing scenario. Celsus library was a respite. Twenty Lira note has picture of this library on its back side which indicates the importance of this place.

Pasha has reserved a separate chapter for his travel from Celcuk to Pamoq Castles. It was a three hours journey via Ayden and Nazilli. On way Pasha saw many white hills and then he reached a five stars hotel. Pasha had taken tea bags and dried milk from Pakistan of which he made use of here as well. In the morning the tourists headed towards Cotton Castle. Pamukkale in Aegean Turkey is also called the “Cotton Castle”, because of the white, cottony appearance of the mineral bath spas that abound the province, which is rich in calcium. Known as a “spa town” since the Roman era, tourists travel to Pamukkale to relax in warm, soothing and therapeutic waters in the myriad spas. On way the bus took a stopover at Hierapolis, a Roman town known for its warm water springs (Page 134). The return journey took the tourists to Antalya which is a city in Anatolia, Turkey’s Asian land, 95 % of Turkey; the rest falling in European side (Page 141).

Pasha has substantiated his journey with pictorial representation. His discourse touches all the major and minor details in simple but expressive language. The photograph of Trojan Horse in Chenaak Castle is interesting (Page 176). Troy was a city in the far northwest of the region known in late Classical antiquity as Asia Minor, now known as Anatolia in modern Turkey, just south of the southwest mouth of the Dardanelles strait and northwest of Mount Ida. The present-day location is known as Hisarlik. It was the setting of the Trojan War described in the Greek Epic Cycle, in particular in the Iliad, one of the two epic poems attributed to Homer.

The rest of the travelogue comprises Pasha’s experiences on his travel to Istanbul from Cappadocia. Tahir Anwaar Pasha is a Ravian, started his job in Muslim Commercial Bank and then entered civil service from where he retired as AIG Police. After his retirement he travels and writes; a time well spent.

The writer is the recipient of the prestigious Pride of Performance award. He can be reached at doc_amjad@hotmail.com