Mansehra-Naran-Chilas Road: a drive through an earthly Paradise

Author: Salman Ali

They say, “It is not about the destination, it’s about the journey.” Pakistan is a land of amazing beauty. The geographical variety bestowed on our land has gifted us with the world’s loftiest mountains, largest glaciers, placid lakes and sun kissed deserts.

Kaghan Valley, Naran Valley and last but not the least Babusar Top is simply amazing to travel. I’ve visited Babusar Pass numerous times, but this is a destination which is breathtaking. Babusar is a fascinating place and so is the journey leading to the pass. Lulusar Lake, Besar and all other places are out of a fairy tale. It’s absolute love.

The water flow of Kunar River has decreased considerably over the years and the river has become a little calmer. One can see heaps of garbage at every corner of the river, which ruins its beauty. However, once you are in Naran Valley, you can hire jeeps to visit the popular Jheel Saiful Malook and you can also trek further to Aansu Lake. Malika Parbat is another famous attraction, and the tallest peak in this region. Jeeps charge Rs, 2000 for taking visitors to beautiful and mesmerizing Jheel. From Naran to Saif-ul-Malook it’s a one-day hectic trip. The condition of road is not good, it’s a bumpy road, so don’t try to travel on your vehicles.

The water flow of Kunar River has decreased considerably over the years and the river has become a little calmer. One can see heaps of garbage at every corner of the river, which ruins its beauty. However, once you are in Naran Valley, you can hire jeeps to visit the popular Jheel Saiful Malook and you can also trek further to Aansu Lake

Recently, I had a chance to visit the great Babusar top which is a mountain pass at height of 13,692 feet above sea level. It is at the north east of the 150 km long Kaghan Valley at the edge of Lalusar – Dudipatser National Park in KPK connecting it via the Thak Nala with Chilas in GB on the Karakoram Highway. It is 65 kms from Naran and can be easily accessed by cars. But visitors prefer to travel by jeeps from Naran which cost Rs 7,000 to Rs 8,000 approximately. From Naran all the way to Chilas, relatively fewer hotels and houses can be found on the roadside, so you get to enjoy more natural scenery.

On way to top, one can explore Battakundi which is at a distance of 15kms from Naran which provides access to Lalazar Plateau, lake Dodiputsar and lake Lulusar which is the biggest natural lake in Hazara and the source of Kunhar river.

The Lulusar lake’s water is a striking emerald green, which gives a beautiful look, that one can feel it’s a natural paradise. However, these places are well known because of its natural photography.

Just to highlight for my readers that Babusar pass is a high mountain pass that connects Gilgit-Baltistan with Khyber Pakhtunkhawa, Pakistan. The view is totally out of this world. Towards the top of Babusar Pass, the turns are sharper and steeper. However, the views from the top are truly breathtaking. The clouds that previously appeared on the top of mountains, now surround you.

If anyone is planning then do visit this place from June till mid or late August before it starts snowing. There are many shops at the top where one can get enough to eat though the rates are on the higher side. The drive through Babusar Pass is a unique experience which due to the top-quality road during recent years, has become quite doable. Highly recommended. Even if you are not going to Gilgit, just going to the top and coming back would be quite an event.

The district administration closes the road from Balakondi which leads towards to Babusar Top till Chilas at sharp 5pm. They don’t allow visitors to travel because of security risks as murder, snatching and kidnapping is quite common. But interestingly what I felt when I was here few days back, the local police allowed visitors taking small amount of money and importantly allowing VIPs. I want to request the DPO and DCO Mansehra should take notice of this situation as this is not the Naya Pakistan.

I hope everyone remembers that in 2013, a violent mob in Chilas town ended up lynching nine Shia bus passengers travelling through the Karakoram Highway. What I saw while crossing Chilas is quite astonishing that mostly houses are marked with signs and posters.

The writer is a social and political activist. He can be reached at salmanali088@gmail.com and Tweets at @Salmani_salu

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