As one drives towards Dera Ghazi Khan, boundless sand can be seen; sand dunes here and there. As soon as one arrives at Sahi Sarwar, stone mountains heave within one’s view. Apart from it, stone crushing machines crushing stones and pouring the crushed material into trucks, attract one’s attention. It goes without saying; these stones are used for road construction. The more one makes his way through Sahi Sarwar towards Fort Munro, the more barren, rocky mountains become dangerous and the circuitous roads built around them. Extreme left and extreme right turns, one is to make, taking care of the trucks and cars coming one’s way from opposite direction. This is not all. Sitting on the front seat, one starts getting goose bumps. After 30 minutes or so, jeeps can be seen winding their way through mountains.
The slopes become more precarious, as one nears the Fort Munro and to say nothing of the rugged gigantic stones lying on the mountains facing the road, making one’s heart thump. One road leads to the resident area, going deep down in the valley and other leads to Fort Munro. When one reaches Fort Munro, one eyes fall on the Pine plants and shrubs, welcoming the newcomers, and bringing relief to one’s sight. At the crest of the Fort Munro Hill, there lies the Deputy Commissioner House/Munro Lodge, dilapidated Fort, Court and office of Political Assistant, House of political Assistant/Sandman House, Commissioner House and British cemetery, respectively. It is remarkable that there is a jogging and walking track built on the hill, leading to the above places. One can enjoy breath-taking view while having a walk.
As for the Deputy Commissioner House, it was named Munro Lodge, after the Commissioner of the Derajat Division, after whom the whole area is named. Of the political assistant’s house, it was aptly named, Sandeman House, after the famed diplomatic wizard, who almost single-handedly brought the fierce Baloch and Brohi tribes under the control of the British.
Hardly a few steps away from dilapidated PA Court and Office, perched on Fort Munro Hill, on the periphery of the hill overlooking the valley, is a 1950 monument celebrating the Union of Baloch Tribes with Pakistan. Unfortunately, the writing on the monument reading “Ilhaq Balochi Pakistan” is defaced. Interestingly enough, the names of all prominent Baloch Sardars including the Mazari, Gurchanis and Legharis are etched on the back side of the monument. It is not out of place to mention here that Baluchistan is hardly 15 kilometres away. This brings me to yet another interesting aspect of Munro. There is a British graveyard of historical importance where deceased British had been laid to rest. All in all, there are five graves over there.
It would be worthwhile to say a few words about Bloch culture and the natives there. Attired in shalwar qameez, they use their words economically while speaking slowly. At heart, Balochis are of gentle and of polite nature. When you strike up conversations with them, they instantly become friendly. As regards the special food of this place, Balochi Saji, its very tasty.
At the end of the day, Southern Punjab’s heaven, Fort Munro is steeped in history. If you want to have a flavour of Bloch culture, then, this is the place for you.
The writer is a lawyer based in Lahore. He Tweets at @zaeem8825 and can be reached at zaeem.bhatti89@gmail.com
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