Daily Times

If you are a Lahori, you must have visited the Lahore Fort also known as Shahi Qila many times, but have you ever thought about the stories hidden inside the walls, bricks, doors, gardens, fountains, palaces and the dungeons? The fort is not about the buildings it has; it is a living history of the eras it has gone through and still reflects the love, atrocities, times of tranquility and upheavals which Lahore witnessed through this fort as it was always the most wanted seat for those who ruled Lahore. Lahore Fort was enlisted among the world heritage sites in 1981 by UNESCO.

Now let us come to the insights of this reflection of many centuries. It cannot be said with certainty when the Lahore Fort was originally constructed or by whom, since this information is lost to history. However, evidence found in archaeological digs gives strong indications that it was built long before 1025 A.D as we do see the temple of Loh inside the fort. The earliest reference to the fort comes in a history of Lahur (Lahore) compiled by Al-Biruni, which refers to its construction in early 11th century. Historic accounts say that in 1241 A.D. it was destroyed by Mongols, in 1267 A.D. it was rebuilt by Sultan Ghiyas ud din Balban, in 1398 A.D. it was again destroyed by Amir Tamir’s army, in 1421 A.D. Sultan Mubark Shah Syed rebuilt it in mud, in 1432 A.D. it was occupied by Shaikh Ali of Kabul who made repairs to the damages done by Shaikha Khokhar and then in 1566 A.D. came the Mughals and Akbar rebuilt the mud fort with solid brick masonry on its earlier foundations.

He extended the area of fort towards the river Ravi, which till 1849 A.D., used to flow along its fortification on the north. Lahore Fort measures about 427 meters east-west and 335 meters north-south excluding the fortification wall of Sikh era and is enclosed within a strong fortification wall, built in small burnt bricks aging to Akbar’s era. The fort was essentially a fortress palace, but it also, served as an abode for royal treasury, and a strong hold in the event of war.

Lahore Fort is the only monument in Pakistan, which represents a complete history of Mughal architecture and the eras following it. There are quadrangles inside the fort which relate to a particular era and reflect the architecture of those times

The Sikhs added an outer fortification wall on the north with the moat. The marble Ath Dara, Haveli Mai Jindan and Huzoori Bagh Bara Dar, Haveli of Kharak Singh and some structures on Sheesh Mahal were constructed by Ranjeet Singh, Sikh ruler from 1799-1839 A.D. Moti Masjid was turned into a temple and renamed Moti Mandir and later used as a building for the state treasury. The royal kitchen was turned into food storage and horse stable. Haveli of Kharak Singh was added in the Jahangir’s Quadrangle.

In 1846 A.D. the British occupied the grand fort and modified it by adding the Postern Gate and built a new passage inside the fort which separated the Sheesh Mahal and Deewan-e-Aam area from the Royal Kitchens and Alamgiri Gate. Modifications consisted mainly of converting older buildings into hospitals, barracks, and other colonial functions. During the British rule Deewna-e-Aam was turned into a hospital and dispensary. The main wall at different parts was extended thus blocking the view of the picture wall and the Badshahi Mosque. The British jail was constructed for the prisoners and the royal kitchens were turned into prison cell. Another storey was added for the residences of the officers and police. Similarly Emperor Jahangir’s Sleeping chamber was converted into a dining hall and the haram was converted into the guest houses. The kitchens for the British were built on the roof top of Deewan-e-Aam. In 1899, on the orders of Lord Curzon the viceroy of sub-continent, the Moti Masjid was restored to its former status, and some of the religious remnants were preserved at the Badshahi Mosque. In 1927 A.D. the British hand over the Fort to the Department of Archaeology and later after 1947 we were lucky to have it here in Pakistan.

Now let us come to some unique features of this fort. It has almost 21 different buildings in it and this makes it one of the largest forts in the world. Lahore Fort is the only monument in Pakistan, which represents a complete history of Mughal architecture and the eras following it. There are quadrangles inside the fort which relate to a particular era and reflect the architecture of those times. The architecture of Akbar’s period in the fort is characterised mainly by the use of red sand stone, and cut brick work. The use of animal figures such as lion, elephant and peacock as well as sculptured gargoyle, as brackets to support the chajja of dalans (eaves of chambers) in Jahangir’s Quadrangle shows the Hindu elements used in the Mughal architecture of Akbar and Jahangir’s period. The buildings of Shah Jahan and Aurangzeb periods provide a striking contrast with the former. The use of marble in place of red sand stone, and exuberance of the Persian motifs, pietra-dura and glazed tile mosaic work, are the” chief characteristics of the buildings added by Shah Jahan, the prince architect of South-East Asia.

The main gate of the fort was the Akbari Gate or Masjidi Gate and was used by the Mughal Emperor Akbar. It is said that Shah Jahan built the Musamam Gate for his ease and later another gigantic Alamgiri Gate was built by emperor Aurangzeb Alamgir which is accessed through the Huzoori Bagh. Main entrance to the fort these days is the Shah Burj Gate which speaks loud of its own grandeur and was built by Shah Jahan in 1631-32.

As you make your way into the fort, the first building you see is Makatib Khana which was built in 1617 during the reign of Jahangir. A little ahead is the Diwan-e-Am (hall of public audience). Daulat Khana-e-Khas-o-Aam is another masterpiece and is the backside of Diwan-e-Aam and includes the state balcony.

Now from there you make your way into the Jahangir’s Quadrangle which was built with the cost of seven hundred thousands of rupees in those times. Its features reflect Hindu temple architecture referring the Akbar’s approach of tolerance. The main building of the court standing in the middle of the north side was, Jahangir’s own sleeping chamber, known as ‘Bari Khawabgah’.

Next you can move to the Shah Jahan’s Quadrangle on the east of the Lal Burj. There you will see the majestic Diwan-e-Khas and the living chamber of the king. This part of fort is made with pure white marble.

Another stunning piece is Shahi Hammam (royal bath) which was built by Shah Jahan in about 1633 A.D. There were single baths on its four corners, out of which only two on the southwest and northern-west corner still exist. Next to the Hammam is the ladies garden, the Paien Bagh. From there you can make your way to the Sheesh Mahal where you will see the Ath Dara.

As you are inside the Sheesh Mahal square, you will see the most expensive building of the fort, the Naulakha Pavilion and the name is after the cost of rupees nine lacs, spent on its construction. The two structures flanking this pavilion on the east and the west are known as Lal Burj and Kala Burj. Moti Masjid of fort cannot be missed out which is located near the present canteen area and backside of Makatib Khana.

Now let me take you to another marvel which is the Hathi Pair or Elephant Stairs and was built by Emperor Shah Jahan in 1631-32 A.D. It was meant for elephants carrying the royalty from and to the palace.

Here comes the world’s largest picture wall. The gorgeous wall being elaborated and vivid mosaic decoration in pleasing colors was commenced by emperor Jahangir in 1624-25 A.D but accomplished by Shah Jahan in 1631-32 A.D. The wall measuring nearly 450 meters in length and 17 meters in height is the most representative relic of Mughal period.

The royal kitchens inside the fort should not be missed which are located near the Alamgiri Gate. These have been recently restored by the Walled City of Lahore Authority and would be opened for the public soon. Opposite to this site are the Musamam Darwaza of Shah Jahan time and the British era Barood Khana. Both these are also been restored at present. This is a short story of Lahore Fort and I think it’s a must visit site in Pakistan.

The writer is a media professional and can be reached at heritagechroniclestq@gmail.com

Published in Daily Times, July 7^th 2018.