Daily Times

An out of the ordinary looking mosque is located in the Walled City of Lahore, inside the Shah Almi Gate near Pappar Mandi, which is called the Moraan Tawaif Masjid. I guess the name will attract you to know more about this piece of heritage. Well the locals now do not call it by its complete name; they just call it the Moraan Masjid. Historic references say that the mosque was built by Moraan and her mother, and Tehqeeqat-e-Chishti. Whereas some references say that Maharaja Ranjeet Singh at Moraan’s request, built a mosque called as Masjid-e-Tawaifan in 1824, which was renamed in 1998 as Mai Moraan Masjid in Lahore. Tawaif in local language of Urdu means a ‘dancing girl’. And this Moraan (dancing girl) was Maharaja Ranjeet Singh’s favourite. Till date, the mosque is red in colour, which was once the symbol of passion and love of Moraan Tawaif for the religion of Islam and it showed the standards of religious harmony prevalent back then.

If we talk about the structure of the mosque it is built on a raised platform and one has to climb a few steps to enter inside it. Though the mosque was built in a simple structure but you will not see the original fabric today as it has been completely changed over the passage of time but the name and historic value remains there. Like many other mosques inside the walled city of Lahore, this one too is not open for the general public and is only limited to the entry for those who go there for the five prayers, as it is a functional mosque. Also, let me tell you here that this mosque is one of the known ones inside Lohari and Shah Almi area and you will always see hustle and bustle there during the prayer hours. If by any chance you manage your way inside the mosque you will see that there are rooms inside the Mosque for the residences of the Imam and Moazzen of the Mosque. On one side there is an area for the ablution and people say that the placement of this ablution area is the same which Moraan constructed. The mosque has three domes and Maulana Ghulaam Rasool was deputed as the first Moazzen of the mosque by Maharaja Ranjeet Singh. This mosque and the religious school (madrassa) associated with it gained popularity in those times and people from far flung areas would come there to attend classes and for research on religion. The mosque was known for the Islamic education, calligraphy and diversified religious studies. No doubt, that it attracted foreigners and locals of the sub continent in those times. Unfortunately the school was closed down during the British era but the Mosque is still intact. At present the mosque is hidden behind many encroachments and perfume shops and one has to look for it amidst them, as it is comparatively a smaller structure and cannot be compared with Wazir Khan Masjid or Begum Shahi Masjid in its grandeur and space covered.

You must be thinking about the name of the mosque and history associated with it, so let me tell you a little about that too as you might not find much information regarding this mosque on internet as not much has been written on it because it remained a hidden piece and so it is till now. Firstly we need to know about the character of Moraan and observe her role in the Sikh History and Lahore. She was known to be the beloved of Sher-e-Punjab, Maharaja Ranjeet Singh and later he married her out of love and respect. Now here is something interesting for my readers that Maharaja Ranjeet Singh in his entire regime here at Punjab did not mention his name on a coin but yes, the coin of Moraan Tawaif was issued as a currency of that time. The coins were the origin of the term Moran Sarkar, and were called Moran Shahi currency. The court decisions were not made in the chamber or court of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, but in the drawing room of Moraan Tawaif. Soon she got popular as Moraan Sarkar and became a window to the common people who often brought their problems to her and she was the one who ordered the courtiers and other officials to resolve those issues. According to references, she was also considered to be very cultured in arts. She was known for her philanthropic acts and in bringing Maharaja’s attention to many problems which he and his ministers would overlook otherwise. This is the importance of the Moraan in the sikh history and Lahore.

So now let me tell you who Moraan was? Moran Sarkar was born in a Muslim family in Makhanpur, near Lahore and Amritsar. At the young age of 21 she made her way into the heart of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh because research reveals that the Maharaja considered Moran among the most beautiful of his queens. She appeared with him in many public events. The love for Moraan spell bounded Sher-e-Punjab and he married her against the will and wishes of the entire Sikh population and despite the conditions that were put down by Moraan’s father and the head of her community Mian Samdu. In real life she was a dancer who performed in the court of Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, a young dancer known as twaif at that time. Through his marriage to Moraan, the Maharaja wanted to support the community of tawaifs who were socially unacceptable and so he gave respect to all those who were associated with her.

Some references say that Maharaja Ranjeet Singh, upon a dancing girl named Moraan’s request, built a mosque called Masjid-e-Tawaifan in 1824, which was renamed in 1998 as Mai Moraan Masjid. ‘Tawaif’ in Urdu means a ‘dancing girl’. And Moraan was Maharaja Ranjeet Singh’s favourite dancer

After their marriage in 1802, Moraan and the Maharaja went for a dip in the Ganga, which is a ritual to be free of sins by taking a bath in the pious waters. The marriage raised the anger of the entire Khalsa Panth (the community of baptized Sikhs) and Ranjit Singh was called to the Akal Takht for retribution. He was proclaimed guilty and condemned to public flogging. He bowed before the Akal Takht and accepted the punishment. Maharaja was tied to slings by Akali Phula Singh for marrying with Moraan. Maharaja proved by accepting all the punishments that his love for Moraan would never end and that his decision was right. Moraan used to dance for him at the Baradari of Maharaja Ranjit Singh which is in the middle of Amritsar and Lahore and the place was called ‘Pul Kanjri’ but now it’s named as ‘Pul Moraan’. Moraan constructed a house for herself in Bazaar Chowk Chakkla inside Lohari Gate, and as the years passed she decided to ask the maharajah to get her a beautiful mosque constructed next to her house and that was when this mosque was constructed.

After the death of Maharajah Ranjit Singh Moran moved from the Lahore Fort to her house in Bazaar Chowk Chakkla, and became a very religious woman. Post the death of Maharaja she spent most of her time and money trying to set up Persian and Punjabi language schools. Historic accounts state that she passed away somewhere in 1862 and was buried in the Miani Sahib Graveyard. Her grave location has been a mystery whereas many people claim that they found her grave.

Published in Daily Times, June 10^th 2018.