The Syeds of Golra – II

Author: Gulbaz Mushtaq Advocate

The romance of Golra is captivating and its story does no complete without the mention of Pir Naseer-Ud-Din. The story of Golra starts from Punjabi folk couplets of Pir Mehr Ali and perpetuates itself through sophisticated Urdu ghazals of Pir Naseer-Ud-Din, while being accompanied on the route by ‘Farmudaat’ of Babu ji, a total of 101 precious letters.

Golra Sharif is a town situated near the Margalla Hills in Islamabad

Born in 1888, Babu Ji carried forward the legacy of virtue and knowledge of Pir Mehr Ali until his death in 1974. He remained Gaddi Nasheen of Golra for 37 long years, a responsibility he discharged in a splendid manner and with singular devotion.

Babu Ji was beloved son of Pir Mehr Ali and was loved by Muslims and non-Muslims alike for he was a generous soul, giving to all, loving all despite what someone’s race, religion and creed was.

The Golra Mosque is located within the compound of Golra Sharif

The summer of 1947 was hotter and longer than routine in India. The monsoon was tainted by human blood for it was a commodity cheaper than water that year. The bloodthirsty men hailed from every faith and every religion was responding to ‘the call of duty’ by killing their fellow countrymen who believed in gods different than theirs.

Life had become worthless for Hindus and Sikhs of Rawalpindi and suburbs. Golra, however, was an exception. Babu Ji became a shield for helpless non-Muslims and facilitated the migrating families to cross the Indian border safely. Some 1939 kilometers away from Golra, in coastal city of Calcutta, one Bapu Ji was doing same job for Muslims of the city.

Babu Ji had a special love for train journey. Golra Sharif was a busy junction in those days linking Peshawar, Kohat, Havelian and Multan. Trains from Peshawar would travel to internal part of India and were always available to fulfill Babu Ji’s craving. Today, the station exists but not the moving trains.

Grandson of Babu Ji, and son of Baray Lala Ji, Pir Naseer-Ud-Din is said to be the replica of Babu Ji. In summer of 2007, when the Lal Masjid siege left students of the Madrassa dead in Islamabad, Pir Naseer-Ud-Din was raising voice in Juma sermon for them – and that too, being follower of a different sect. The only sane voice in Islamabad was not listened to and perished in the echo of bullets.

Picture of Pir Mehr Ali Shah (left) and Pir Naseer-ud-Din Shah (right)

With advent of corporate sector, religion too has become a business. This business flourishes in pigeonholing people and in creating hatred of other sects for this is the custom in this market. Pir Naseer Ud Din was not so good at it. He preached religious harmony and tolerance. He was generous to all and thus, respected by all. For a few, however, his crime was unforgivable; he gave Fatwa allowing to offer prayer behind a Wahabi or a Deobandi Imam.

As a Chishti Sufi, Pir Naseer was ranked high in Urdu poetry. His death marked an end of era of love and tolerance. He was laid to rest at his family graveyard on Valentine’s Day of 2009.

‎بساط بزم الٹ کر کہاں گیا ساقی
‎فضا خموش، سبو چپ، اداس پیمانے

‎نہ اب وہ جلوۂ یوسف نہ مصر کا بازار
‎نہ اب وہ حسن کے تیور، نہ اب وہ دیوان

The author is a lawyer based in Islamabad. He is partner at Just & Right Law Company. He can be reached at gulbazmushtaq@justnright.com.

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