Inside the magnificent Wazir Khan Mosque

Author: Salman Ali

One cannot deny the fact that Lahore is enriched with historical and artistic monuments, which have helped the city retain its tourist look. The Wazir Khan mosque is one of the amazing pieces of artwork, which is appreciated for its incredibly awesome faience tile work. It is located in Lahore and is also sometimes referred to as the ‘mole on cheek of Lahore’. We are all aware that the walled city is a small world within this huge city of Lahore. Tourists are mostly fascinated by the architecture and by people of the walled city.

This mosque was built in 1634 by Shaikh Ilm-ud-din Ansari commonly known as Wazir Khan, during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan. During that time Wazir khan constructed many historic monuments like Nakhlia Garden, which is also famous for its immense history. Construction of Wazir Khan Mosque began in 1634 C.E. and was completed in 1641. The mosque was completed in about seven years.

Within the mosque, colourful ceramics and plaster have been used. Persian art can be seen everywhere in the mosque. The mosque’s walls are almost completely suffused with detailed embellishment of kashi kari (tile mosaic), fresco painting, stone and chuna (lime plaster) decoration, and taza kari (brick outline fresco) on both the exterior and interior surfaces. The entire floor is built in cut and dressed small brickwork laid in some 13 patterns. One can see Shahi Hammam baths nearby, but for the past many years the bathhouse did not provide as much income as intended, so it has almost been shut down. But the bazaar to the east of the mosque is quite successful and remains a flourishing market till date and continues mesmerising the tourists.

This mosque was built in 1634 by Shaikh Ilmuddin Ansari commonly known as Wazir Khan, during the reign of the Mughal Emperor Shah Jahan

Many fellows were informing me that this mosque is the most distinguished and notable feature of the architecture having minarets at all the 4 corners, which was the first artwork in 17th century. A good thing to mention here is that people of the walled city are not pretentious at all, rather they’re very humble, generous, and kind. They have sheer warmth and don’t hesitate in sharing their stories with anyone. So few of them tried to share there own stories with me regarding the Wazir Khan Mosque. It was great to interact with them.

Looking at the calligraphy and art inside and outside the mosque, it appears to be a school of art and design. The mosque portrays a fusion of art and civil engineering that only Mughal architects could make possible. But later Emperor Aurangzeb, who was son of Shah Jahan, constructed the enormous Badshahi Mosque with similar minarets much later in 1673.

While visiting the mosque, I also saw a tomb of renowned Sufi saint Syed Mohammad Ishaq commonly known as Miran Badshah which is located in the elongated main courtyard commonly. People from all fields come here and pray for their wishes. On asking few locals, I was being informed that this sufi saint was buried before the construction of the mosque.

If anyone is planning to visit this place then do keep in mind that there are shops on both sides of the road and encroachments left only a little space for vehicles to maneuver. So one has to walk on foot to reach the mosque.

The writer is a social
and political activist based in Lahore. He can be reached at salmanali088@gmail.com and Tweets at Salmani_salu

Published in Daily Times, March 11th 2018.

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