Daily Times

Pakistan’s celebrated fashion industry is much more than mere ramp walks and models. The latter would not exist if it wasn’t for an established designer like Omar Farooq. His take on fashion is one of a kind. Farooq is also the recipient of this year’s LUX Style Award nomination for Best Designer – Menswear. I spoke to him about his journey as a businessman and what makes his label, Republic, desirable.

How did you transition into the field of designing?

I had to keep a team of designers and people who ended up working with me for a long time period. I want things to be worked in a certain way so only a few people stuck around and we built a great relationship that helped Republic grow as a designer label. Since I have a photographic memory, designing comes to me naturally and I see things from an entirely different perspective.

Who inspires you in fashion?

Growing up, I was a fan of my dad’s wardrobe. I gained firsthand knowledge of how a suit looked from him. My dad was my biggest inspiration. In fashion, I would say Tom Ford has done a good job. He understands what kind of suits and shoes look good on a man.

Having studied abroad, what modern techniques do you keep in mind while executing different designs?

I went to a fashion school but eventually dropped out. However, I did my bachelors in Business and minor in Psychology. I was lucky to join a tailor company in Dubai back in 2004. The guy I worked for as an intern was my guru and taught me the craft of tailoring. I tried to extract as much knowledge I could while I was there as an unpaid intern. I learned the process of cutting and stitching a suit by hand.

Describe the process that goes into creating an impeccable suit.

I like the art of tailoring that originated in Naples, Italy. Naples is home to many tailors. Their manner of constructing a suit is different than many countries. There is minimal detail of shoulder pads; the sleeves and ease of shoulder lines give unique looks. I would prefer that form of tailoring than English craftsmanship. I can give a Nepalese suit a long shot.

Republic is one of the leading designer labels in Pakistan. How was the brand brought about and why did you choose to name it ‘Republic’?

The brand is 7 years old but the plan to set it up was implemented 10 years ago. I once read an autobiography of the individual who launched Diesel and he said something that struck me. The reason he named his brand Diesel was because it was pronounced the same way in every language. The idea was basically to have a strong international title thus I chose to name my brand Republic. In Pakistan, however, people tend to buy a label that sounds more foreign than local. I guess it is purely psychological in that respect.

Republic by Omar Farooq is unique in its approach to fashion for menswear however it is often criticised for being too pricey. How would you respond to such criticism?

The brand’s retail is far less than that of Zara, which is one the cheapest brands in Europe. I am providing people with better quality, design and retail. The issue is with our current economic situation. Our economy is not strong enough to sustain the market or the system, which is not my fault. Yes, I agree that my custom made suits are expensive and will always be as our fabric is imported from the finest mills in Italy and everything is handpicked.

In your opinion, what is an ideal colour palette for men’s formal wear? What colours are best suited for spring, summer and fall?

I am a huge fan of blue and gray. I don’t like black as much. I prefer different shades of blue the most as it looks good on every guy. For fall, deeper tones such as charcoal slate gray, tinge of camel and burgundy look better. I think the season of pastels is long gone; spring and summer mostly consisted of pastels but I personally don’t like bright colours on men. This year, I’ll transition from pastels to burnt or tangent tones.

Unfortunately, there are only a handful of colour palettes for men to choose from. Do you not think we should go beyond black, gray and blue hues?

The palettes differ from season to season. I prefer bottle green at the moment so most of my collection will consist of bottle green and burgundy shades. I generalise something for the masses and that will always be the same. If someone does not really understand colours, I would recommend experimentation with blue.

What is your brand focused on at the moment?

The projects are unending. We’re in the middle of launching our spring/summer collection. The sampling and production are underway. We’ll soon have some shoots done for our upcoming collection and have a fashion show, PFDC in March. My stride is to expand my brand as fast as possible and Karachi tops my list.

Have you ever been stereotyped in light of designing being considered a profession predominately for women?

Not at all – as a matter of fact, I’ve always been appreciated for my hard work. My initial years were not stable and I feared that my brand would fail. I was literally broke but I persevered. I’m least concerned with what anyone says or thinks of me or my profession. I don’t believe in awards. The work I do is more important. I am a businessman at the end of the day and that is how I see things. But one thing is for sure, I am not your typical designer.

Balmorals or Loafers? What is your formal wear preference? Why?

I prefer loafers but not the ones that are driving shoes. I feel that driving shoes are a big no-no. In summers, loafers suit well; two shades of brown and a black shoe are must haves.

Published in Daily Times, February 17^th 2018.