Daily Times

A global cuisine that is Chinese, is uniquely and meticulously prepared in varying techniques in different cuisines. In Pakistan, it’s no different. We have our own distinct manner of preparing this specialty. Be it prawns, curries, egg fried rice, noodles or Chicken Manchurian, the recipe is put together in a way that appeals to masses. But do Pakistanis master this art of cooking Chinese? Well, sometimes yes, and at other times, no. I ate at various cafes, restaurants and fine-dining eateries to discover who aces the Chinese preparing art. Here’s what I thought.

CAESAR’S RESTAURANT – by far the worst Chinese I have had in Lahore was at Caesar’s Restaurant, Luxus Grand Hotel. I remember being very hungry, and when you’re hungry, anything would do. But halfway through my meal, I realised I would rather have stayed hungry than indulging in the restaurant’s poorly prepared Chinese meal. The soup was tasteless, the fish crackers were raw and hard, the egg-fried rice was stale and the noodles were actually graying. Not cool and not impressed.

CHILLI CHUTNEY – nestled in Johar Town, this desi restaurant that is now offering fast food and Chinese as well, got it all wrong. Their gravies are an extension of their soups, so it basically seems as if you’re either pouring their Hot & Sour soup atop Egg Fried Rice or having their Hot & Sour soup with Egg Fried Rice. I had the misfortune of ordering their soup first and then later, gravy with rice and I honestly felt as if the soup came back in a bigger platter, only to be served with rice this time. To start off so badly on their Chinese cuisine, I lost heart to try anything else in their Chinese category.

CHINA TOWN – I discovered China Town in Karachi first where I instantly fell in love with its soup and prawns. I knew in my heart that those were the best-fried prawns and the best soup I have had in Pakistan and secretly wished for it to open up in my hometown as well. A few years later, when China Town did make its way to Lahore, I noticed how the same familiar taste and flavour was present in their servings – similar to the one I had tried in Karachi. Without a shadow of a doubt, the restaurant, nestled on Mian Mahmood Kasuri Road, Gulberg, serves the best egg fried rice, vegetable noodles, Chicken Manchurian, drumsticks, soups and fish crackers. I wouldn’t say the same about their prawns, as the last time I had them, they appeared to be a bit soggy and I like my prawns crispy. But for the rest of the items, do head over to China Town for those.

LI KWANG – it’s true when they say, “Good things come in small packages.” I discovered this dhaba style Chinese restaurant in a quite corner of H Block, Defence. It’s owned by a Chinese father and son duo. The best thing about Li Kwang is that the son is always ready to serve you, no matter what the time of the night is, and you can practically hear his father yelling for him to tell all that they have closed. The restaurant serves the best chicken chowmein in Lahore, without a doubt. I know somebody who has been around the world and has had the best of cuisines globally. I took home some of Li Kwang’s noodles and my friend couldn’t stop raving about them, requesting me to order more of them. The fish crackers were a bit hard and their prawns have a bit of a weird twisted shape, but other than that, their rice, Manchurian, drum sticks and noodles are a class apart.

LUNG FUNG – old is definitely gold. I have been having Chinese food from Lung Fung as long as I can remember. So my first memories of Chinese food binging are associated with Lung Fung only. To this day, they haven’t let their quality slip and I believe that’s what sets them apart. They serve rich helpings in the most affordable of prices and are present everywhere in Lahore. Their Chinese food is prepared in just the right amount of salt, spice and other condiments, and their USP is their crispy fish crackers.

MANDARIN – the restaurant has delicious Chinese food and I want you to take my word for it. I have realised sometimes, but not always, the best food is served at the most affordable of places with rich helpings. Their prawns are some of the best that I have had, and that goes for their rice, noodles and gravies too. Although, I wouldn’t say the same for their soup.

RED PEPPER – I wonder how the restaurant is still operational. Perhaps for their other specialities, but definitely not for their Chinese. Also, the hygiene element is totally missing from their food. And I would also like to question their chicken cooking skills. Definitely, not worth your money at all. In fact, I would suggest complete abstinence even if they offer you for free.

That said, I would also like to ascertain the fact, that how most of the times home cooked Chinese food turns out to be the best.