Daily Times

Travelling to Uzbekistan was a dream for Tahir Anwaar Pasha but his banking services in the beginning and at the end of his career and life in between, as a civil servant, (in the Police Service) became hurdles. It is an amazing phenomenon that educated people have a lot of talent. One has seen many prominent singers among the engineering community. One also finds extra ordinarily talented writers among bureaucrats. Here I would like to make mention of Mr. Zafar Mahmud, former Chairman Wapda with two novels and a book on Kalabagh Dam to his credit, and Mr. Tariq Mahmud, a noted writer with two novels and five short story collections to his credit. There are many others that can be referred to but these two gentlemen encouraged Pasha to write a travelogue. Former Police Officer Naheed Durrani, author of two novels and eleven poetry books, also encouraged Pasha to start writing. Pasha says that he has travelled a lot during his life time but each time on return he got entangled in a mess of his official duties and was not able to write a travelogue This time around however, when he was truly free, he wrote a book on his visit to Uzbekistan.

Uzbekistan, though famous as a country of Imam Bukhari and Ameer Taimur, appeared in the news but not for any good reasons. On November 02, 2017 it was reported that the suspect in the deadly truck attack in New York, Sayfullo Saipov, came to the United States from Uzbekistan, a Central Asian country and former Soviet republic, apparently for better horizons. The country which has faced years of economic stagnation, relies on remittances from those who go abroad to help families make ends meet, but has also seen militant movements grow from political and religious conflict. The Republic of Uzbekistan is one of the only two doubly landlocked countries in the world. Located in Central Asia, it is a secular, unitary constitutional republic, comprising of 12 provinces, one autonomous republic, and a capital city. Uzbekistan is bordered by five landlocked countries: Kazakhstan to the north, Kyrgyzstan to the northeast, Tajikistan to the southeast, Afghanistan to the south and Turkmenistan to the southwest.

Travelers from China to the seas took the silk route, making Samarkand an important trade centre. During the Abbasid era, many wars were fought with China.During the Abbasid era, many wars were fought with China. Two Chinese captives taught locals the art of making paper, hence the first paper mill was established

From the usual travel details and checking in a hotel, Pasha proceeds ahead about his impressions of Tashkent, Bukhara and Samarqand. In Bukhara, Pasha found his hotel which was originally turned from a Haveli (mansion) into a hotel, a piece of art. Built by a Jew who sold it and went to Israel, reminded Pasha of Mian Salli and Faqeer Aizaz uddin’s Havelis in the inside city of Lahore. It seemed to be an ordinary house but was spacious once one entered it, with a tomb in the center. There must have been a hole on the top for air to enter but was now covered by glass as the hotel was air-conditioned.

Visiting the historical places took the group of travelers to ‘Poi Kalon’ (a Persian word Paaei Kalaan (big foot), a minaret built with bricks surrounded by a religious complex. This minaret is also known as the “minaret of death” as centuries ago, a death sentence was imposed on the convicts from this minaret. The next stop was at Samaani Tomb that laid down the foundation of building a tomb on graves, a trend still followed in the Sunni Sect of Islam. Built in 905, it still holds erect, overlooked by Changez Khan’s invasion as it was submerged by floods back then. Russian Archeologist, V. A. Shishkin rehabilitated it in 1934. This tomb exhibits Irani architecture. Close by is Ayyub’s Spring (Chashma). This religious monument is built in the center of Bukhara. It comprises of some graves and a holy well. Bukhara used to be a desert. Short of water, people prayed for water. While Hazrat Ayyub was passing by, he stuck the earth with a stick and sweet water started erupting from it the form of a spring. When the Shaibani Kingdom made Bukhara its capital, the city became a trade center. The bazars were covered by tombs. They were called covered bazars. Among the four trade centers, the most famous one is ‘Toki Zar Garan’ (jewelry shop). The ‘Bolo Hose Mosque’ was close to Ayyub’s spring. Hose means ‘a pond’. Bolo means ‘a child’. It is called a complex as it has a pond and a beautiful mosque (Page 35). The last two places mentioned by Pasha are Arc Fort and Bukhara Cultural Show.

Title: Uzbekistan
Writer: Tahir Anwaar Pasha
Publishers: Sang-e-Meel
Publications, Lahore
Pages: 177, Price: Rs. 600/-

The troupe travelled by train to Samarkand from Bukhara. Samarkand means ‘stone fort’. This city is considered to be an ancient city. It is a contemporary city of Bukhara that came into being seven to eight centuries before Christ. The travelers from China to the seas took the silk route, making Samarkand an important trade center. During the Abbasid era, many wars were fought with China. Two Chinese captives taught locals the art of making paper, so the first paper mill was established. The Samaanis took over the Abbasids and remained in power from 862 to 999. In 1220 the Mongols invaded this area; Changez Khan looted, murdered and plundered. Four Mongolian dynasties ruled here. Marco polo visited this area as well. Ameer Taimur took over much later and was popular amongst the Uzbeks. It was natural, therefore, to visit his tomb. There were six graves, one grayish-green in colour of Ameer Taimur and the others of his sons Shahrukh, Miran Shah, grandchildren Alagh Beg, Muhammad Sultan and Ustad Syed Barakaat, known to be one of the descendants of Prophet PBUH. Being Muslim, Pasha offered Fateha. Outside, many locals made pictures with the visitors.

In the seventeenth century, the value of Samarkand diminished and Bukhara became the center of attraction. Ironically, Ameer Taimur is remembered as a vicious conqueror who razed ancient cities to the ground and put entire populations to the sword. On the other hand, he is also known as a great patron of the arts, literature, and architecture. One of the major indicators of his achievements is his capital at the beautiful city of Samarkand. A complicated man, Taimur continues to fascinate generations some six centuries after his death. He used to limp because in the initial days of his fights with Ameers, Khans and other rulers, on his way to Khurasan, he received some injuries at a place called “Dashti Margo” in Afghanistan. Resultantly, he started being referred to as Taimur Lung or Taimurlane. He was a hired assassin for war with Khurasan where he ultimately became ruler. Iran was his next target. Afterwards, he attacked Azerbaijan. He then proceeded towards Moscow but had to retreat due to severe weather conditions (Page 59). Iraq and India were his next targets. Taimur attacked India to spread Islam and capture India’s wealth. The shrewd ‘Tataari’ army burnt the backs of camels and forced them to rush towards the elephants of Taghluq’s army. The elephants retreated and trampled their own army. Hence, Delhi was conquered (Page 61). Taimur stayed in India only for fifteen days and gathering all the wealth, returned to Samarqand via Kashmir. By doing so, he laid the foundation of entry for his great-great grandson Zahiruddin Baber.

In the 17th century, the value of Samarkand diminished and Bukhara became the centre of attraction. Ameer Taimur is remembered as a vicious conqueror who razed ancient cities to the ground and put entire populations to the sword. On the other hand, he is also known as a great patron of the arts, literature, and architecture

The visitors were taken to Hazrat Daniyal’s tomb, Bibi Khanum’s grave, Raigistan (desert) Square, Alagh Beg Madrissa, Sher Dar Madrissa, Talakari School and finally Imam Bukhari’s tomb. We shall dwell upon some background of Imaam Bukhari.

Bukhari (19th July 810 to 1st September 870), commonly referred to as Imam Bukhari, was a Persian Islamic scholar who was born in Bukhara. He authored the hadith collection known as Sahih-al-Bukhari, regarded by Sunni Muslims as one of the most authentic hadith collections. He also wrote other books such as Al-Adab al-Mufrad. He drew up his al-Jami’ as-Sahih, a collection of 7,275 tested traditions, arranged in chapters so as to afford a basis for a complete system of jurisprudence without the use of speculative law.His book is highly regarded among Sunni Muslims, and considered the most authentic collection of hadith, even ahead of the Muwatta Imam Malik and Sahih Muslim of Bukhari’s student Muslim ibn al-Hajjaj. Most Sunni scholars consider it second only to the Quran in terms of authenticity. He also composed other books, including al-Adab al-Mufrad, which is a collection of hadiths on ethics and manners, as well as two books containing biographies of hadith narrators.

The visitors noticed that Bukhari’s tomb was located thirty kilometres from Samarqand in a village called Khartang. His grave still emits the odour that was witnessed when he was buried. The rest of the travelogue contains impressions of Tashkent and pictorial journey of this tour.

Pasha has written his travelogue as a mixture of tourism and reportage. From Samarkand he travelled to Tashkent. He discussed Pak-Uzbek relations, joint war against terrorism, political and state structure, late Islam Karimov, culture and way of living, Ali Sher Nawai, arts and paper. The last chapter contains information on the places Pasha could not visit as his visit was restricted to a week’s duration.

The writer is an award-winning musician and author. He Tweets at @amjadparvez and can be reached at doc_amjad@hotmail.com

Published in Daily Times, November 16^th 2017.