Daily Times

Kauai is the oldest island in Hawaii, the greenest and arguably the prettiest. The airport is nestled against the dark waters of Nawiliwili Bay and the green cliffs of Haupu (meaning “recollection”) range. We threw our bags into a rented car and drove toward the north coast. Our destination was the town of Princeville, named after the Hawaiian Prince Albert, who died at the age of 4.

Captain Cook discovered the islands of Hawaii when he first landed on Kauai in January 1778.

He named them the Sandwich Isles, after the First Lord of the Admiralty. Today there is hardly any British influence left, other than in the state flag, where the Union Jack occupies the upper left hand corner. The people are very friendly and combine a variety of Asian ancestries, including Polynesian, Korean, Chinese and Japanese ancestries, in addition to Caucasian and African ones.

The scenery on Kauai includes lush green forests, tall mountains, extinct volcanoes, rivers, plantations, palm trees and, of course, those wonderful sandy beaches.

With such variety, more than 60 films and shows have been filmed there including Jurassic Park and South Pacific.

During the next two days, we drove around Kauai to check out the sights. The first place we toured was Limahuli (“turned hand”) Garden, along the north coast and a short drive from our hotel.

The garden specialises in native Hawaiian plants.

It is set on a hillside between cliffs and sea.

One of its interesting plants is the fan shaped kalo (“taro”), which seems to simply rise out of the water.

This plant is still picked by hand in neighbouring Hanalei, where it is cultivated over 200 acres.

Hanalei produces about two-thirds of the state’s production of taro.

Later in the day, we drove to the Kilauea Point National Wildlife Refuge, home to the Laysan albatross, booby squawk, and split-tailed “frigate” bird, among others. It is also the location of a 52-foot high white lighthouse that dates back to 1913.

The place is very airy and sensuous, since you can see creation happening before your eyes.

Deep in a bush we spotted some freshly hatched chicks that were being fed by their mother.

The next day we drove to Poipu Kai (sea) on the south coast. One of the landmarks, the “spouting horn,” is a lava tube in which the waves get caught and spout out every few minutes, making a loud hissing sound and sending a salty watery spray for several feet outward.

From there, we drove on to Waimea, where Captain Cook had first landed on the island. We continued driving to the 15-mile long Barking Sands beech, where the road ended and the rugged cliffs of the Napali Coast loomed in the distance.

We returned partway and then ascended up the winding road into Waimea Canyon.

From the lookout that appeared after a half-hour drive, we saw how deep the canyon was, how many colours there were in its rock formations, and spotted waterfalls in the distance.

On our third day, we decided to take our first-ever helicopter ride to get an aerial view of island’s beauty. We knew it would be different from a plane ride, with that big chopper blade-turning overhead. We knew it would be abrupt and made sure it would not be one of those dare devil rides piloted by a Vietnam veteran. We also knew it would be different from the quiet, almost surreal balloon ride we had once taken in Cappadocia, Turkey.

Today there is hardly any British influence left, other than in the state flag, where the Union Jack occupies the upper left hand corner. The people are very friendly and combine a variety of Asian ancestries, including Polynesian, Korean, Chinese and Japanese ancestries, in addition to Caucasian and African ones

But nothing had prepared us for the views that would come from that small flying glass bubble in which were housed. We were seated inside with two other couples, a middle-aged one from Florida and a younger one from Germany. The pilot in his goggles not only resembled General Douglas MacArthur. He also spoke like him.

We lifted of gently and within a few minutes had come over the blue waters of Nawiliwili Bay.

Then we swung back onto land. We were now over a rugged mountain range.

The pilot told us there would be turbulence as we would soon fly over the sharp ridge ahead of us and yes, there was turbulence.

It shook the glass bubble fiercely, as if some it had become an invisible giant’s plaything.

The valley yielded quickly to the Waimea Canyon that we had seen from the ground.

For good reason, Mark Twain had called it the Great Canyon of the Pacific.

It was there in all its glory: 10 miles long, two miles wide and 3,600 feet deep.

Soon, we spotted the Barking Sands beech, looking like an oasis of white sand flanked by green shrubs and the blue Pacific.

Two sea cliffs acted as bookends, Poli Hali (house bosom) and Kekaha (the place).

We spotted a missile test facility that was incongruously perched on top of a cliff overlooking the peaceful blue waters.

Our helicopter swung around and immediately brought us over the magnificent Napali Coast, with its jagged line of tall cliffs that rose 3,000 ft above surging white surf.

The coast is 14 miles long and has defied all attempts to build roads.

From there, we went into the verdant Kalalau Valley, then over Bali Hai Mountain and into breathtaking Hanalei Bay.

Then we came over Wailua Falls, which with its double waterfalls was the location of the TV series ‘Fantasy Island’.

In the grand finale, we descended into the extinct volcanic crater of Mt Waialeale, the highest point on the island at 5,148 feet.

It is also the wettest spot on earth, receiving more than 400 inches of rain every year. Tropical trade winds flowing up and over its slopes create a cloud cap that is always there.

Fortunately, when we arrived it was not there and our pilot was able to fly us right into the crater.

We saw waterfalls, some cascading like thunder into its deep interior and others flowing outwards and forming the seven rivers that flow toward the sea, and unusual rock formations and vegetation but no animal life.

In what remained of our holiday, we passed up on a chance to take part in the traditional Hawaiian dinner known as the Luaua, which features Hula dances and sumptuous meals.

We had seen many of these on prior visits to the other islands. We also passed up on a chance to take in a boat ride.

The one on the helicopter had satiated our desire for rides. All we wanted to do was to soak up the sun and take in the fragrant breezes.

The words of English travel writer Isabella Bird seemed to waft over Hanalei Bay, that the Bay was “so glorious that it was possible to think of nothing all day” while enjoying its exquisite pleasures.

We became her disciples and the beach became our haunt.

Alas, within a couple of days, it was time to pack and drive back to Lihue, to catch the night flight back to reality.

The writer has visited 35 countries on six continents. He can be reached at ahmadfaruqui@gmail.com

Published in Daily Times, October 26^th 2017.