Here are some highlights of Friday´s spring 2025 menswear collections:
On a drizzly day, Demi Moore swept in with her plus one – a Chihuahua called Pilaf- and when asked if she preferred dogs or cats, she replied, “isn´t it obvious?” In the same spirit as the Hollywood actress, Dior´s runway decor, inside the opulent grounds of the Left Bank´s grand 17th century Val-de-Grace, was very tongue-in-cheek. It consisted of sculptures depicting ceramic reclining nude felines and cheeky canines, inspired by Nel and the Dior designer´s own collection of trinkets.
Jones´ artistic references are no surprise. Known for his historical and cultural inspirations, he has previously drawn on his uncle´s photographs of Rudolf Nureyev and T.S. Eliot´s “The Waste Land.” This collection continued his tradition, bringing Nel´s whimsical ceramics to life.
Bird motifs on a moody, black tailored jacket and a gender-fluid cloche hat opened the show, the model holding a reclining nude feline. Sketch-like animal motifs then appeared throughout. Loose, boxy proportions on car coats and skorts felt airy and defined the spring silhouette of designs that channeled the muted pastels of glazed ceramics. A demure pearly neck accessory – a sort of strappy hood collar – was a standout that seemed at once historic and fashion-forward, a signature of the British designer. Jones´ innovative tailoring shone through, as always. Spring-like coats that seemed soft and feminine were given a full stop in the form of black leather boots, in one of many plays of contrast. This juxtaposition of delicate and strong elements is a hallmark of Jones´ design. This season however, seemed more like a variation on a theme for the couturier, rather than something overtly new.
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