Daily Times

Oh, my Lahore! We all are well aware that Lahori cuisine, which is a part of the Punjabi food culture, has transformed over the decades, and now includes in it foods brought in by communities who were once stranger to this city. Pakistan’s province of Punjab is famous because it can arrange great food and culture festivals and have a rich history, which puts many countries to shame.

While the world is talking about Chinese, Spanish and Mexican, I thought of highlighting the position of Lahori food on the chart of bizarreness. I am sure this food stands somewhere in the top 10 list. It’s a true Lahori’s food and can be found at every food market with ease.

Yes, this is tawa gurda kapoora – a true Lahori dish prepared on a big, flat steel pan with a chopping sound. To avoid the embarrassment of associating its original word with food, most of us now call it Taka Tak. It refers to the sound made by the skilful chef while frying these organs and hitting the pan with two sharp blades in a captivating rhythm. He keeps slicing and frying them until the kapooray, gurday (kidneys), dil (heart), maghaz (brain) and chaampain (ribs) become a homogeneous mixture of meat and thick masala curry. You can pick and choose which parts to include in your serving. It is delicious and for sure a heavy meal to eat. You can opt for a soft drink to eat with it, which will give you a good taste. Simply mouth-watering!

One of the most famous spots for trying out gurda kapoora is Lakshmi Chowk, Gawalmandi. One can enjoy the typical outdoor dining experience in the heart of Lahore, sitting in the company of hens and roosters. The occasional clucking of the birds mixes up with the magical and musical beat of the taka tak. While the meal is under preparation, one can even take a quick nap on the manji. The icing on the cake is when a massager offers a service just before the meal is served

One of the most famous spots to try this out is Lakshmi Chowk, Gawalmandi. Not only one can enjoy the typical outdoor dining experience in the heart of Lahore, you will also find a bunch of live chickens to give you company while you listen to the magical and musical beat of the taka tak. While your meal is getting ready, one can sit or can lie down on the Lahori manji and relax. The best part of the experience is when a massager offers you a service just before you can indulge in your delicacy.

And if you avail that maalish, you will for sure feel as if you are in heaven and will eat more after having getting this desi massage.

The moment you take the first bite out of this scrumptious meal, you will forget the traffic noise, the diesel smoke, the smell of chickens, etc and will be transported to a food coma. You will just fall into it. The best thing is that it’s not too costly and falls in the price bracket of Rs 250 – Rs 300 per plate.

In winter, it’s a meal to eat with no compromise. However, I love the voice of taka tak and I wish I could dance to it. Those who do want to eat out at this place but are finicky about cleanliness and hygienic eating premises, can always get the food packed and take home.

People of all ages can eat to their heart’s content. So just walk in. Order and enjoy the desi touch of Lahore!

The writer is a social and political activist based in Lahore and can be reached at salmanali088@gmail.com

Published in Daily Times, September 29^th 2017.