Customers can sit at a counter inside a makeshift hut banged together out of unfinished lumber and partly sheltered by a corrugated-metal roof. Skewered chicken parts, from such everyday cuts as wings and breasts to less common bits like tendons and neck skin, were browning over a pair of tabletop boxes filled with burning sticks of binchotan charcoal. When the embers waned, the chef, Atsushi Kono, piled up fresh charcoal and beat the air with a hand-held bamboo fan, driving oxygen into the fire. Within a minute, flames would be jumping up toward the plywood ceiling. The experiment in open-fire, open-air yakitori cooking, which went by the name Chikarashi Isso at 50 Bowery, came to an end the next month. But Mr. Kono and some business partners have built a new indoor restaurant in a ground-floor space down the block, in a secluded passageway running from the Bowery to Elizabeth Street in Chinatown. He now tends his skewers from behind a slab of green marble on which he will occasionally lay a burning cedar board, under a gleaming brass hood that sucks up any errant sparks.