Welcome to Sura, dressed to suggest a Bangkok Chinatown night market, according to its chef, Billy Thammasathiti. He co-owns the young restaurant with his mother, Penny, and his brother, Andy, the skill behind the drinks here. His aunt, Satang Ruangsangwatana, is a consultant on the project and the reason for my initial visit. Ruangsangwatana was a co-chef at foodie favorite Fat Nomads. An order of skewered beef shows how the chef makes some Thai basics his own. A riff on crying tiger beef, the ropy meat is marinated in fish sauce, palm sugar and salt and sprinkled with what Billy calls “rice spice” roasted sticky rice, lemongrass, lime leaves before hitting the grill. The textures and aromatics are riveting. Other dishes let Thammasathiti remind you where he’s cooked before. The chef displays raw black tiger shrimp, garnished with crackling tobiko, in a pool of sauce made green with chilies and cilantro and sassy with lime juice and garlic. The supple shrimp slip over the tongue like slick noodles; the fire in the sauce stays with you even as you move on to other dishes.