There’s something addictive about Bologna, with its long porticoed streets, sun-baked squares, cavernous churches and labyrinthine lanes dotted with bars and cafes. It is home to the western world’s oldest university and there are tremendous towers that make the mind boggle. The capital of the Emilia-Romagna region retains a delightfully sleepy feel – perfect for a lazy weekend. Hotel University – Close to the campus, this small hotel with 22 smart rooms is on a narrow street with pink and ochre old buildings. It’s popular with parents visiting children attending the university, but it also suits those after simple lodgings in a central location. B&B doubles from £82. Best Western Hotel San Donato – Don’t let the chain-brand name put you off. This is in an ancient building converted into a functional hotel with original features such as arches and pillars. The rooftop terrace has views of Bologna’s leaning towers. Rooms are modern and spacious. Albergo delle Drapperie – This friendly little hotel is on a tiny street busy with bakeries, wine merchants, fishmongers and antique shops. It’s in the heart of the city, just off the Piazza Maggiore. The 20 rooms are colourful and restful; the best tucked away on the top floor with exposed beams. Beware the steps to the first-floor reception. B&B doubles from £90. There’s something addictive about Bologna, with its long porticoed streets, sun-baked squares, cavernous churches and labyrinthine lanes dotted with bars and cafes Art Hotel Orologio – Even closer to Piazza Maggiore, this hotel lives up to its name with eye-catching art and slick public areas with sculptures and mirrors. Some rooms have views of the piazza and the hills beyond the city. Rates can creep over £100, but if you book in advance, the cheapest deals are available. B&B doubles from £94. Prices can fluctuate. Restaurant Pizzeria Nino – Set on quiet street with some tables on a long terrace. Great pizza, grilled beef with rosemary, lasagne, seafood spaghetti and lobster are among main courses. Ristoranteninobologna.it Caffe Gran Bar – It can get busy at this popular tapas bar just off Piazza Maggiore. Select tapas from a cabinet at the back of the bar and the friendly waiters bring them to you: olives, cheeses, hams and pizza slices. A great spot to unwind. 7 Via Massimo d’Azeglio Galliera 49 – for delicious chocolate, rum, lemon or pistachio ice cream, seek out this much-loved maker of gelato, just north of the centre. One scoop £1.30. Buca San Petronio – In a small shaded courtyard, this jolly restaurant has outside tables which are lovely on a balmy evening. Pasta offerings include lasagna, tortellini with ragu and ravioli with asparagus. £15-£20 for two courses. Bucasanpetronio.it Wander into San Petronio Basilica and marvel at this fine red-brick church, dedicated to the city’s 5th-century bishop, St Petronius. It has pride of place on Piazza Maggiore and was originally planned to be bigger than St Peter’s in Rome. When Catholic authorities heard of this, however, funds were diverted. It’s still pretty massive: 132m long, 60m wide and 45m tall. OK, so this is not free – a ticket to ascend Bologna’s remarkable Torre degli Asinelli, a tower built for an important family in the 12th century, costs £4.30.