Daily Times

A marvel in the bounds of thirteen gates is known as the walled city of Lahore.  This mystic city with narrow winding streets which form a labyrinth amidst the vibrant bazaars gives a feel of a very well knitted neighbourhood with sky touching rooftops and rich cultural life. This is a city with strange streets and I guess that nowhere in the world you will come across such a networking of streets. This is not all if we talk about the streets of the old Lahore. The most interesting aspect is the names of the streets and their sizes. In my opinion the streets, apart from the monuments, are a must visit place.

If we talk about the Walled City of Lahore, we get to know that this city dates back to the era of Hindu Prince Loh but reached its zenith during the Mughal rule. Emperor Akbar built these thirteen gates and a wall around the city. The grandeur of Mughal, Sikh and British era is reflected from the world class monuments and bazaars which this city has. The mazes like streets were also built as soon as the settlement began and that was primarily during the Mughal era when Akbar built the thirteen gates and fortified wall around the city.

The eras which this city passed through are still reflected in the structure, monuments and streets. Starting from the Mughal era and till the colonial period the Walled City of Lahore had well-defined domestic and community territories for ethnic and trade groups and spaces were also designed according the religions of the people living there. Such a systematic city cannot be seen anywhere. The hierarchies and chain of command of political power, social divisions, caste, and calling were clearly represented in its physical structure.

If we analyse the built of the city we observe that the street system was structured according to progressively localised domains of privacy: a hierarchy of main spines (guzars), neighbourhoods (locally referred to as mohallahs, koochas), streets and culs-de-sac (galis). Today we do not see this setting in the localities of greater Lahore. The hierarchical network of movement created by these levels of territoriality with densely packed houses was also typical of this traditional urban form and that is why the neighbourhood was so strong and remains like that till today.

The streets of the walled city had buildings like residential houses, commercial units, service (tavelas, fiI-khanas, carriage houses), and social and religious (mosques, imam-baras, shrines, temples, Gurdwaras, dharmasalas, marriage houses), cremation spaces punctuated by open squares and gardens.

If we talk about the streets, it is one way of getting familiar with the history of walled city as each street has a history of its own and trust me, roaming around them is more interesting than any other monument, though monuments of the city have their own special place.

Here I am not just writing about the built of the streets, the main interest is the names of the streets which are unique and no one can even think of such names. There are almost 2,500 streets inside the walled city each having a different and a unique name. Once you enter this city from any of the thirteen gates you will come across Koochas, Katras, Mohallahs and streets in a maze like pattern but with exceptional and fascinating names.

Your tour of the streets will become mesmerising if you know their names and that would make you visualise the past of those streets.

In walled city, the streets and mohallahs are named after famous personalities, incidents, stories, clans or occupants and many of the names are self-explanatory when it comes to knowing their history. You will see names from all religions and different clans; the reason is the settlement that took place in the walled city. The names also reflect the harmony and tolerance of the city.

From the Mughal era to the colonial period, the Walled City of Lahore had well-defined domestic and community territories for ethnic and trade groups and spaces were also designed according the religions of the people living there. Such a systematic city cannot be seen elsewhere

Let me tell you the names of a few streets and mohallahs of the walled city which will trigger you to visit this place. First of all let us come to the streets which have been named after the occupation of the people living in them. To name a few, there are Koocha Qasaban, Koocha Chabay Garan, Koocha Telian, Koocha Kababian, Koocha Darzian, Sabeel Wali Gali, Koocha Qandi Garan, Koocha Nezaa Maraan, Koocha Majawaran, Gali Mashkiyan, Koocha Rangrezaan, Koocha Chiri Maraan, Koocha Naqashan, Gali Dhobian, Koocha Charkh Garan,  Gali Ghungroo Sazaan, Kharadi Mohallah, Koocha Gul Faroshan, Gali Waan Wali, Gali Bandooq Sazaan, Koocha Loharaan, Mohallah Patranga, Koocha Chabak Sawaran, Koocha Naqarchian, Phoolan wali Gali, Pehalwan Gali, Waan Wali Gali, Mohallah Patranga, Tumbakoo Wali Gali, Koocha Gubarchian, Koocha Telian, Jogi Mohallah, Koocha Uncha Jamadaraan, Gali Lath Maraan, Koocha Teer Khana, Wachoo Wali Gali, Koocha Achariyan and a few I might miss, as there are so many of them.

Similarly, you will find hundreds of streets and mohallahs which are named after different sects, castes, gods, goddesses and personalities. These names also reflect how the people of different religions and sects lived together in this place with harmony and love for each other.  Gali Surjan Singh,  Gali Gol Pehalwan, Gali Raja Narindar Nath,Koocha Khair Din, Katri Bao Mumtaz, Koocha Kamani Lal, Gali Billa Kabootar Baz, Sheeda Halwai Wali Gali, Koocha Shankar Nath, Koocha Bhawan Shah, Gali Rani Gul Begum, Koocha Bhaiya Hari Singh, Katri Meer Chand, Gali Sabir Peer, Katri Shah Abdul Hameed, Katri Rohan Laal, Mohallah Samiyan, Shahye Pehalwan ki Gali, Koocha Beli Ram, Syeda Mubarik Begum Gali, Koocha Faqir Khana, Gali Mataa Rani, Gali Panj Peeran, Koocha Loon Chakaan, Gali Gogi Tarkhan, Mohallah Samiyan, Gali Devi Ditta, Gali Mela Raam, Koocha Imam Din, Gali Mai Gulaboo, Gali Sajjan Qawal, Koocha Thullay Shah, Koocha Kalyani Mataa, Koocha Aurangzeb, Koocha Sheikhaan, Mohallah Kakayzaian, Koocha Gogar Mishra, Koocha Chaudhriyan, Gali Mai Aga, Koocha Chughtaian, Gali Molana Rohi, Gali Billa kabootarbaaz, Gali Mama Bhanja, Katri Wali Shah, Dai Bholi Wali Gali, Koocha Tipu Sultan, Koocha Raliya Raam, Koocha daroga Nazool, Gali Lal Misraan, Mohallah Shiyaan, and many more to be counted on. Streets are also named after the famous Havelis located there like Aloo wali Haveli Gali, Gali Haveli Kabli Mal and Pathar wali Haveli Gali.

We also get to see that most of the streets and mohallahs are also named after the women. These were either the goddesses or the known ones among the people at that time. These names also show the gender equality and broad mind set of the people.

To experience all these names and the city traditions you need to visit the walled city. Well, if you want to know the meaning of any of the street names, you can easily ask any local and they will narrate the whole tale associated with the name of the street and will also offer you a cup of tea of Lassi. The streets and mohallahs inside the city are still intact and people do not want to change the ages old names as they take these names as their identity.

Published in Daily Times, October 21^st 2018.