Mubarik Haveli — where the true spirit of Muharram is seen

Author: Tania Qureshi

As the sacred month of Muharram starts, we see the atmosphere filled with sadness because of the tragedy of Karbala and remembrance of Hazrat Imam Hussain. You must have heard of people going to Mochi Gate for the majalis and processions along with the name of Mubarik Haveli.

It is located inside Mochi Gate which is one of the thirteen gates of the Walled City of Lahore, and was built by Mughal Emperor Akbar.

It is said that the traditional Tazia Alam procession starts early morning from Mubarik Haveli and after passing through its traditional route, ends at Karbala Gamay Shah. This practice has been going on since centuries inside the walled city. It is also said that this is the largest procession and gathering in South Asia.

During 9th and 10th Muharram, the procession starts at Nisar Haveli on the 9th, and moves through Mubarik Haveli, Mohalla Chehl Bibian, Imambargah Syed Wajid Ali Shah, Chowk Nawab Sahib, Koocha Qazi Khana, Imambargah Maulvi Feroz Ali, Koocha Miskeenan, Mohalla Peer Gillanian, Imambargah Syed Rajab Ali Shah, Chauhatta Mufti Baqir, Chowk Kotwali, Kashmiri Bazaar, Sonehri Masjid, Dabbi Bazaar, Gumti Bazaar (Rang Mahal Chowk), Said Mittha Bazaar, Tehsil Bazaar, Bazaar Hakimaan, Ucchi Masjid and Bhaati Chowk, concluding at Karbala Gamay Shah.

Thousands of mourners gather here during Muharram. It is said that in the past Sikhs and Hindus also participated by setting sabeels and attending the majalis

Other small processions from all over Lahore join in at the Bhati Gate on the 10th before Sham-e-Ghareeban.  The route hasn’t been changed in over 200 years.

Historic references tell us that during the rule of Mughal emperor Muhammad Shah, three nobles, Bahadur Ali, Nadir Ali, and Babur Ali, who were the sons of a known hakeem constructed a huge haveli inside the Mochi Gate, and named it Mubarik Haveli.

It took three years to be constructed and is considered an architectural masterpiece. During the Sikh riots the building was abandoned, as the British took over, they gave it to Nawab Ali Raza Qizilbash. At that time, Mohalla Shia’an Kashmirian was already a predominantly Shia community, and gradually, Mubarik Haveli became the main gathering place.

The nawab, out of respect to the original owners, rebuilt it during 1863 and converted a major portion into an Imambargah, which is considered among the finest in Lahore. It was then passed down to His sons, Nawab Nawazish Ali Khan and his brother Nawab Nasir Ali Khan. These brothers also managed to rebuild major portions to help the old haveli regain its original glory.

Mubarik Haveli has the finest architecture and multi foil arches which are supported with pillars. The latter give the building an aesthetic and artistic tone. The courtyard is made of bricks and surrounded by a number of rooms.

Once you enter you will be carried away by strange sensation, the building is painted with different colours, predominantly green and brick red. Some portions have wooden balconies and some arches reflect the Mughal architecture. Black Alams line the wall on one side of the building and te silver Tazia is decorated with stunning engravings. Preparations for Muharram start at least one month before. Thousands of mourners gather here during Muharram. It is said that in the past Sikhs and Hindus also participated by setting sabeels and attending the majalis. Today, Muslims from all sects take part in the majalis and processions inside the walled city. This gives the message of harmony and amity.

Published in Daily Times, September 21st 2018.

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