Daily Times

Haute couture has no limits; iconic designers endeavor to create and deliver the best in style every year and I was fortunate to interview one such fashion designer who is unlike any other. Having approached the Beirut-based Lebanese mogul Georges Chakra, I interviewed him exclusively for Daily Times.

What best describes your label Georges Chakra?

It is feminine, innovative and dreamy. These values are a constant in every collection. But a true description of the label can be derived from the love of the women it dresses, who are filled with life, grace, elegance and power.

How was Georges Chakra conceived as a fashion label?

Like any artist or creative person, Georges Chakra was born from the need to create beautiful things. This need was sparked by a visual influence; my mother, who loved Parisian fashion, and was always the epitome of class. With her sewing machine, she would alter her dresses and accessorise them to the envy of the neighbouring women.

But growing up in a war clad, Beirut wasn’t easy for anyone, especially someone who craved inspiration. So, I travelled and completed my studies from Canada and returned home to work, not knowing what the future held. In devastation, people sought beauty, and so my label, Georges Chakra was born. Alone, in my small beginner studio, I would sketch, create patterns, sew and meet clients.

As a label, Georges Chakra takes pride in finding new, original and sometimes even bizarre textiles. The designer says it is very important to move forward and evolve with the textile industry

What more can you share about yourself and how your vision reflects in your designs?

Since fashion design was not available in Beirut at the time, I enrolled in an Interior Design program. I beyond excelled and loved the idea of working with different fabrics for a home to create a mood or a story. After two years of studies, amidst political instability in Lebanon, I left for Canada, and enrolled at the Canadian Fashion Academy.

I could spot a misaligned skirt or blouse from across the room. This methodical approach has paved the way for my label, and is instilled in all the petites working at the atelier. There is never an alternative for having perfection in every piece, although it can be difficult sometimes.

What makes the brand standout among its contemporaries?

As a label, Georges Chakra takes pride in finding new, original and sometimes even bizarre textiles. It is very important for me to move forward and evolve with the textile industry. Our collection consists of original fabrics, whether they were plastic coats and dresses that were shown on the runway in 2009 or the laser-cut sheets of paillette from the fall of 2007. In our latest collection, I spent countless hours hand painting delicate feathers and fabric. Georges Chakra lives to create art, to constantly discover, and to present a sense of wonder without undermining function or purpose. That is what makes the brand standout.

Describe the creative process that goes into constructing a stunning signature gown or dress?

All gowns start from a thought or a visual inspiration, and are then illustrated into a sketch. For every gown, I draw 20 sketches on average, perfecting every line and elaborating on seams and cuts. After the sketch has been chosen, the next step is to focus on an embroidery design if there is any. On a large board, patterns will be drawn to center on design and crystal placement as well as thread embroidery and color. Once approved, our pattern makers take over.

They take the sketch of the elaborate gown and divide the pieces. By hand, they create and draw a simplified form of the gown. Tulle, organza, gazar and silk lining are all cut to specification and sent to their corresponding team. The couture atelier takes the main fabrics and lining and begins to shape the dress. The embroidery design is now sent to our technical artist that goes through the whole print and is aligned to the exact millimeter.

The real work begins once the dress is put together. Take my ruffled gowns from my latest couture show, as an example. The gown was placed on a mannequin and then the ruffles were hand pinned, piece by piece to create an organic feel and consistency. If something does not match, it is unpinned and reworked.

What is being worked on at the moment?

A line of accessories; bags and belts to be more specific. Accessories have become staples in wardrobe. There are no constraints when it comes to fashion and so the label felt that this is the next step.

What color schemes and designs can we expect for spring/summer 2018 from Georges Chakra?

The Couture Spring Summer 2018 collection is a love story with a fairytale ending. A series of extremely chic black and white silhouettes are considered followed by pastel shades of yellow, lilac, blue, grey, green and pink. The overall show exudes a sense of lightness and fresh summer breeze.

The motto of this season is “LOVE” and that is engraved in the heart of the collection and even embroidered on three runway pieces. There is a sense of modern couture with cuts and shapes sewn intricately in every form, even bouffant dresses and sleeves. It is a visual appreciation of strong femininity.

Are there any plans of going international?

In the near future, the team and myself are working on consolidating the base of the ready to wear line. In the long run, expanding my brand name to include accessories and eventually opening stand-alone boutiques are on schedule of expansion, along with other plans soon to be announced.

What was the most well received Georges Chakra item for the year 2017?

That would be the thigh high boots which were paired with a matching micro dress from the Couture FW 17-18 show. I wanted to create an idea of continuity at the beginning of the collection and so all the boots were either made from the same fabric or were hand embroidered to match their corresponding dresses.

Does your label cater to affordable fashion or is it only a luxury brand?

Catering to affordable fashion or being a luxury brand is somewhat of a relative point of view. Georges Chakra is a luxury brand since I offer my clientele the best in terms of design, fabric, sewing and embroidery. What I mostly offer is timelessness as my gowns are worn indefinitely. But our ready-to-wear line does offer the same design aesthetic and attention to detail with a friendlier price tag.

Georges Chakra was also featured in the 2007 film ‘The Devil Wears Prada.’ How was the experience being featured in the Oscar nominated film? How was the brand approached for the movie?

We are always contacted for gowns to be featured in Hollywood productions, such as ‘The Devil Wears Prada’, Woody Allen’s ‘Café Society’ and series like ‘Gossip Girl’. However, we never know if they will make the cut. We were over the moon when we found out about the fashion show scene in the ‘The Devil Wears Prada’ especially being featured with Valentino and Azzaro. This was the first international recognition for the brand and being a part of such a cult fashion movie is beyond anything we had experienced.We were emailed by the film producers asking for our Couture Spring-Summer 2005 collection that was just shown in Paris, for a movie featuring Meryl Streep. After being contacted by the Hollywood producers, we sent the gowns they had requested. Seeing the brand on the big screen was a surprise and an affirmation of the brand’s style and artistic direction.

How have celebrities responded to your label?

Throughout the years, Georges Chakra has become exceedingly present at Hollywood events and red carpets. When a confirmation concerning a gown is received by the PR department, work automatically begins to either ship the gown or to start on the alterations requested.

It is when making custom gowns that celebrities have felt most powerful and we have received the greatest compliments. Our favorite story is what I had envisioned for Dame Helen Mirren for the 2008 Oscars – a dark rouge satin dress with floral encrusted sleeves. Her measurements had been sent, and the atelier worked without having sent a toile. From all the gowns available, Helen picked ours.“It fit like a glove” is what she told us.

Is there any mantra behind Georges Chakra’s success?

Always staying centered, rooted, and true to my brand’s identity. I value my client’s input into the work process and continue to push the boundaries.

Published in Daily Times, March 21^th 2018.