A shipshape village! Captain Cook’s birthplace has glorious hiking, handsome cottages and heaps of history

* A low-lying sprawl of handsome cottages and limestone terraces, the village also boasts a butcher's stacked with Huntsman pies and pasties while the booth seating of Suggitt's cafe makes me pine for nothing more than a jukebox playing The Tremeloes and a waitress with a beehive hairdo