New York Fashion Week got underway on Friday night with several big names absent from the runway but a calendar packed full of young designers and emerging labels — increasingly the event’s trademark. Rodarte opened the Fall- Winter 2023 parade, one of the few major brands to return this year. Rodarte, the upscale brand of California sisters Kate and Laura Mulleavy, offered a Gothic and mystical show with models parading in black dresses with flared sleeves and occasionally plunging necklines. The Collina Strada show was an ode to animals in a menagerie atmosphere. One bewhiskered model “meowed” in front of the delighted audience, followed by a model with a rhinoceros horn and another with a pig snout. The street-wear touch of the brand is still there, but the colors are less psychedelic, more sober and elegant. Those who like theatrical shows will also enjoy the return to New York — with a show on Tuesday — of Thom Browne, who succeeds Tom Ford at the head of the American fashion union (CFDA). Among the other headliners are regulars Proenza Schouler, Altuzarra, Coach, Sergio Hudson, Carolina Herrera, Gabriela Hearst and Michael Kors. But the program, which ends Wednesday in the middle of the Big Apple’s cold month of February, again has a notable absence of high-profilers such as Tommy Hilfiger, Ralph Lauren and previous CFDA lead Tom Ford.